Sycamore Den
3391 Adams Ave. (Normal Heights)
619-563-9019
Happy Hour: 5 to 7 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 4 to 7 p.m., Friday; noon to 7 p.m., Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sunday
Come On Get Happy! | Dr. Ink
In contributing to the feel-good revival of Adams Avenue in Normal Heights, it has been Nick Zanoni’s goal to capture a slice of bar life that his father knew during the 1970s, when working-class Americans took solace in neighborhood watering holes from the era’s tumultuous politics and rocky economy. With a few exceptions, one can easily argue that we’ve come full circle.
At the new Sycamore Den, several vintage design elements are in check. Swag pendant lights like those seen in homes when faux-Mediterranean décor was in vogue 40 years ago hang over a sunken lounge dominated by a fireplace, a wall of banjos and upholstered vinyl seating. Near the entrance, an old player piano named Ruth kicks into gear while a classic popcorn machine at the far end of the bar affords patrons free bowls of sustenance. These days the popped kernels are sprinkled with various gourmet spices, per the bartenders’ whims. And the piano is driven by an iPod, which played nostalgic tunes by Billy Joel throughout most of our visit.
But despite Sycamore’s astute physical trappings and a world outside that seems no less topsy-turvy than it did in the 70s, the bar culture of 2013 persists.
Cocktails today are more intricately constructed, as demonstrated by Sycamore’s veteran mixologist Eric Johnson. With an arsenal of assorted bitters, extracts, liquors and liqueurs, he’s introduced more than a dozen different concoctions that surely weren’t around during the Watergate scandal.
The cocktails sell normally for $9. But during happy hour six of them are reduced to $6 each, including the Hardly Wallbanger, which represents an enormous improvement to classic Harvey Wallbangers when they were consumed prolifically amid clouds of cigarette smoke. For better or worse, and with no outdoor patio, tobacco use is an aspect missing from Sycamore’s travel back in time.
Johnson’s modern-day wallbanger receives the additions of vanilla extract, lemon and soda. They’re combined with the standard ingredients of vodka, Galliano and orange juice, resulting in a creamier mouth feel and a flavor resembling those bygone 50-50 ice cream bars.
Other discounted cocktails include a peachy whiskey drink with Angustura Bitters and lemon zest called Wolf Ticket and a most intriguing blend of gin, concentrated quinine, celery bitters, soda and lime, named Garden & Gun. Frothy egg whites, gin and the herby Italian aperitif aperol converge shrewdly in the Livewrong. Beer taps are aplenty, but only the domestics come down in price to $3.
In addition to free popcorn everyday, complimentary Mexican food is provided by nearby Ponce’s during Friday happy hour. By all accounts, bar owners of the 70s customarily fed their happy hour patrons all sorts of nibbles. It’s an amenity that has sadly waned in many establishments, but one that Sycamore Den has accurately resurrected.
RATINGS
Drinks: 4
The cocktails are crafted with a variety of extracts and bitters, resulting in newfangled flavors ranging from sweet and fruity to herby and complex.
Food: 5
Warm, buttery popcorn is seasoned differently each day with spices such as chili powder and celery salt. Mexican food including fresh guacamole, chips and juicy carnitas is available during Friday happy hour.
Value: 5
Six dollars for strong, well-conceived cocktails is a super bargain in today’s economy. The addition of complimentary popcorn seven days a week plus free Mexican food on Fridays sweetens the deal.
Service: 3
Since most of the cocktails call for multiple ingredients in careful measures, a second bartender is needed when the place fills up.
Duration: 5
Happy hour is held daily, with extended deal opportunities on the weekend.
