Lei Lounge
4622 Park Blvd. (University Heights)
619-813-2272
Dinner prices: Salads and starters, $5 to $12; entrees and sushi, $10 to $32

By Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review

The dazzling renovation of Lei Lounge can send you into multiple moods over the course of a single Hawaiian-style mojito. Combined with lights that change hues from opposite walls obscured by faux ivy is a canopy ceiling projecting everything from midday sunshine and dusky skies to splashing water and bustling Times Square. At moments, the ambiance turns psychedelic, when images of red amoebae and dancing white skeletons enter into the loop.

Despite the costly high-tech rigging, Lei’s new atmosphere is refreshingly serene rather than in-your-face glitz, allowing you to imbibe and dine in what feels like a space created by a master feng shui expert. Indeed, the lighting wavers gently while open skies and fresh air descend upon patrons through a separation between the front bar and main dining area. A smattering of Thai statuary delivers a meditative element to the scheme, giving you the urge to sleep here overnight if you could.

With its reopening on July 12, the menu was completely revised by Chef Angel Melgoza, who came on board after working in the kitchens of Searsucker and Burlap. Melgoza brings a tropical Pan-Asian flair to the table while showing off his knack for balancing fruity sauces with savory proteins. The latter became evident when swiping pork-filled lemongrass pot stickers through sweet-and-sour guava puree; a match tasting like it was invented in a resort on some South Pacific island.

For scallops seared in duck fat and garlic, the chef serves them atop tamarind-lychee jam, turning the pearly white mollusks into a winning dish that could easily appease a person who eschews seafood. The jam’s sweet, raisin-like flavor struck a novel pairing, although the notion of duck fat evaded us.

Unadorned, but outstanding, was ahi poke piled into a large seashell with freshly fried wonton chips on the side. Melgoza sticks to the Hawaiian tradition of poke, using larger-than-usual cubes of the raw ahi and dressing them with nothing more than a touch of soy sauce, white sesame seeds and his own addition of cilantro.

The “Lei-zee roll” also became our favorite dish of the evening, a sushi creation featuring spicy crab, hamachi, carrots, cucumber, avocado and generous cilantro.

“I feel like I’m biting into the first day of spring,” my companion said as we pressed Melgoza for the “secret spice” that he adds into the roll. He refused to tell us, but instead revealed that he will soon start sharing his love of sushi-making offsite, at private parties in a side business called Raw Power Sushi.

From the “bowls” category, we were ambivalent over the baked crab mac-cheese due to the mild curds comprising the sauce: white cheddar and smoked mozzarella. The flavors of the sweet lump crab and Chinese broccoli strewn throughout, however, were given a voice. But having grown up with basic recipes using extra-sharp cheddar, we each agreed the stronger the cheese, the better.

A large portion of Lei’s new menu focuses on small plates suited for lounging over titillating cocktails such as ginger tonics, cucumber martinis, Tokyo iced teas and a summery vodka-spiked lemonade flavored elegantly with snips of fresh thyme. In another vodka drink, the healing powers of aloe vera come into play, along with lemons and 7UP.

Heavier meals listed under the “bones n’ fins” section bow to market-fresh whole fish, served crunchy or grilled. Though we didn’t order it, I’m all in favor since this is the way fish used to be served before American consumers began opting for blander filets in the absence of heads, tails and organs infusing the flesh with richer flavors. Entrees extend also to pork belly with coconut rice and short ribs with purple potato au gratin.

Passing up Nutella volcano cake and a tempting green tea ice cream sundae with blood orange froth, we chose banana cheesecake piped into vertical-standing wonton crepes. It was love at first bite, turning into obsession by the second spoonful as we dipped some of the pieces into the extra-bright tasting berry jam on the plate. Bananas never tasted so lively.

Lei’s remodeling has seen the replacement of its popular cabanas with comfy, circular booths along one side and a couple of low couches with fire-pit tables along the other main wall. Table seating runs through the middle, while the front bar embraces a more minimalist, modern design. But no matter where you perch, the interior views are both soothing and stimulating, leaving you feeling as though a tropical breeze is blowing down your shirt.