During two years at cooking school in Paris, one of the few things I never cooked was a turkey, although it provided the centerpiece for a memorable international Thanksgiving feast held at an American student’s apartment, with the 25-pound bird sourced from the American Embassy commissary. When I returned home to Virginia, where whole turkeys were available year-round, I began experimenting with different methods of cooking turkeys: under foil; in a brown paper bag; in an oven cooking bag; under cheesecloth; high initial heat; even heat. I’ve cooked discounted frozen turkeys, butter-basted turkeys, fresh turkeys and Trader Joe’s pre-brined turkeys and had satisfying results with every method. Three years ago, I discovered my now-favorite: the super-easy, dry-brined technique LA Times food editor Russ Parsons calls the “Judy Bird,” after San Francisco chef Judy Rodgers’ chicken-cooking approach. While it requires planning ahead, this produces a firm, meaty, moist and flavorful bird. The turkey absorbs the salt during its three-day refrigeration, yet isn’t salty. It’s fine to stuff your turkey, but reduce the stuffing’s salt. Most important, don’t be intimidated. Just add your favorite side dishes and dessert and you’re good to go. Dry-brined or “Judy Bird” turkey (Read detailed recipes and FAQ at www.lat.ms/sO74nK) • 1 turkey, 11 to 16 lbs., fresh or frozen (turkey absorbs salt as it defrosts), giblets removed, rinsed inside and out, patted dry • Kosher salt  • A 2½-gallon sealable plastic bag (available at supermarket) Place 1 tablespoon Kosher salt per 5 pounds’ turkey weight (e.g., 3 tablespoons for a 15 lb. turkey) in bowl; pro-rate — do not oversalt). Sprinkle salt lightly inside the turkey cavity. Turn it on its back to salt the breasts, using most salt on the thickest parts of the meat, the breasts and thighs; salt the turkey all over. Put turkey in the 2½-gallon bag. Squeeze out air and seal. Refrigerate the bird three days, breast-side up for two days, breast side down for one day.  Massage the salt into the skin daily through the bag. Liquids will reabsorb. Remove turkey from bag, place it on a platter breast side up and let dry in the refrigerator for eight hours. Let sit for one hour at room temperature before stuffing (if desired) and cooking. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place turkey, breast-side up, on a rack in a sturdy roasting pan (avoid aluminum throwaways) and put in oven. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees after 30 minutes and roast until an oven thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 degrees, about 2½ to 3 hours.  The turkey will cook faster in a convection oven or if using an oven roasting bag. (Mine cooked once in 1½ hours in a convection oven.) Remove bird from oven, tent it with foil and let rest 30 minutes before carving. Skim and discard fat from turkey drippings for use on stuffing or in gravy. Nicole’s stuffing Stuffing — or dressing — is an art, not a science. My ingredients and proportions vary every time. Be creative and experiment. Be sure to taste and correct for flavor. I’ve experimented successfully with a brown Basmati rice-based stuffing with vegetables including zucchini, mushrooms, onions, carrots and garlic. Another year, I added maraschino cherries to my basic recipe — different and delicious. • 1 loaf (1½ lbs.) good quality white bread, stale or dried for 1-2 days, or a combination of breads including oat, potato, whole wheat or corn bread. • 1 large onion, finely chopped • About ½ lb. mushrooms, thinly sliced • 1-2 cups walnut pieces • 2-4 cloves garlic, crushed • ½ to 1 bunch parsley, finely chopped • ¼ lb butter, melted • Chicken stock (can preferred) • Thyme, rosemary (fresh preferred), optional • Salt and pepper Make stuffing the day before use. Tear bread into small pieces and place in large bowl. Add onions, garlic, mushrooms, walnuts, parsley and fresh herbs. Add butter and/or chicken stock to moisten stuffing.  Add salt and pepper to taste, going light on the salt if stuffing inside dry-brined bird. Refrigerate until use. Stuff turkey just before baking or bake in a pan, moistened with turkey juices, for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Marita’s Mandarin Orange Sweet Potatoes • 4-6 large sweet potatoes, baked or microwaved, peeled • 4 tablespoons butter • 6 tablespoons brown sugar, firmly packed • 3 tablespoons dark rum (Meyers preferred) • ½ teaspoon salt • 1/3 teaspoon ground pepper • 2 small cans drained mandarin oranges • 6 tablespoons chopped pecans Mash potatoes with 2 tablespoons butter, 4 tablespoons sugar, 3 tablespoons pecans, rum, salt and pepper. Add 1 can mandarins; mix well. Adjust seasoning. Arrange in 1½ to 2 quart casserole. Mix remaining butter, sugar and pecans; adjust seasoning. Spread atop potatoes. Arrange remaining mandarins on top. Bake uncovered 375 degrees about 25 minutes, or make ahead and reheat. Pumpkin pie (adapted from Marvin Small’s The World’s Best Recipes Cook Book) For one 10-inch or two 8-inch pies: • 1 15-oz can pumpkin • 1 cup dark brown sugar, packed • 1½ cups evaporated milk or light cream • 4 eggs • ½ teaspoon salt • 1-2 teaspoons ground cinnamon • ½ to 1 teaspoon ground or fresh grated ginger • ½ to 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg • ¼ to ½ teaspoon cloves • 1/4 to ½ teaspoon mace • 2 tablespoons dark rum • 2 tablespoons cognac • Pie crust for one 10-inch or two 8-inch pies (or use pre-made pie shells) Combine pumpkin, sugar, salt and spices in a mixing bowl. Beat eggs and evaporated milk or cream with rum and brandy and add to pumpkin. Blend well and adjust spices to taste. Pour mixture into unbaked pie shells. Bake in a 450 degree oven for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour, depending on diameter of pie(s). Pie is done when a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.             Lemon cranberry sauce This is a delightfully tart cranberry sauce and always a favorite at holiday potlucks. • 1 12 oz. bag fresh cranberries, picked over and rinsed • ½ cup sugar • 1 large lemon, quartered with seeds removed • 1 cup water In medium pan, bring water and sugar to a boil. Add lemon quarters and cranberries. Return to a boil and cook until berries stop popping, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Remove and squeeze juice from lemons before discarding. Chill overnight. Recipe may be doubled or tripled and keeps well in refrigerator.