Southpaw Social Club
815 J. St. (East Village)
619-269-2255
Prices: Appetizers, soups and salads, $6 to $15; Flatbreads, sandwiches and plates, $11 to $17
Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review
Southpaw Social Club is ahead of the game in making its first round of menu changes before the San Diego Padres’ home opener with the LA Dodgers on March 30.
Since launching in July at the lip of Petco Park, the beer-centric hotspot (formerly El Vitral) has begun introducing hearty, new dishes that speak directly to those hops and malts fizzing in your mug.
Already in place is a smoker for back-patio barbecues. They’re held from noon to 5 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday, when wild boar sausages, cheddar brats and pork shoulder augment the regular menu that Executive Chef John Bickley is currently revising by 50 percent.
“We’re going for more of a German beer-garden menu,” said Bickley, referring in part to spaetzle mac and cheese made with Vermont white cheddar and a titillating adaptation of bierocks, which Eastern Germans know as warm, puffy buns filled with ground beef and cabbage.
Bickley’s twist on the peasant-style treat is pure 21st century in that he uses pretzel bread while swapping the beef for minced lamb.
Bring on the Trumer Brauerei pilsner.
Amid 40 taps and a chalkboard selection that changes often, Southpaw’s beer list embodies everything from Belgian tripels and saisons to American wheat brews and “Banana Bread” fruit beer by English brewing company, Wells & Young’s. The local crafts aren’t forgotten either, nor are the Joe Schmo standbys such as Coors and Bud Light if you must.
Also, patrons can bathe in the brews for cheap, from 7 p.m. until closing on Mondays, when 25-ounce mugs from the entire tap collection and a cask offering sell for $5 apiece.
Three main seating areas flow through Southpaw, including a game room and patio that offer lawn views of Petco Park.
The company behind the operation, Good Time Design, has taken root Downtown with other ventures such as The Blind Burro, Lucky’s Lunch Counter and The Tipsy Crow, to name a few.
From the menu’s “greens” category, the sprightly quinoa-arugula salad with toasted cumin vinaigrette is staying. It will soon compete with a slate of new salads that includes a not-so-classic “wedge” swooped up with candied jalapenos and pretzel croutons.
Joining the burger list is what I’d call a party in a bun: potato chips and house-made onion dip flanking a steak-y beef patty. Sneak previews of it weren’t available yet, but we became enamored by the existing veggie burger comprising black beans, roasted bell peppers and cilantro. Adorned with pesto, Japanese mayo and avocado, the chef was correct in saying that it offers an elusive umami flavor as elements of sweet, salty, bitter and sour washed over our palates.
Pork schnitzel is about to roll out. Lucky for us, the kitchen had preliminary supplies of the cutlets during our visit. Expected to sell prolifically, the meat isn’t pounded out as thin as traditional German schnitzel. Nor is it pan-sautéed. Bickley can sling them faster and in higher volume via the deep fryer.
What we ended up with was a juicy, tender chop breaded in Panko crumbs and sporting a memorable, crispy exterior. Adding decadence to the presentation was a yolky, fried egg on top along with garlicky Brussels sprouts and lightweight spaetzle filling out the plate. The fruity maltiness of Golden Monkey Belgian Tripel proved an idyllic match.
Grilled flatbreads run the gamut. They include bacon-Gruyere; chicken with basil; and an admirable, three-cheese newcomer featuring roasted garlic and red bells over mozzarella, Gorgonzola and Provolone.
Also, fans of chicken wings need not fear rubbery skins because these are flame-grilled and then deep-fried. Available in several flavors, we tried the mildly sweet garlic-honey and the spiced maple, the latter of which should win an award for uniqueness given that the sauce incorporates whispers of clove, star anise and cinnamon.
Other noshes surviving the menu transition include house-made pretzels with smoked cheddar sauce and fried jalapenos; an artisan meat and cheese board; lobster rolls; and blackened tilapia sandwiches.
As for all of the new dishes that Bickley and his team have been carefully taste testing, he assures they will be fully available by the middle of February.
Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of Secret San Diego (ECW Press), and began writing about food two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. He has since covered the culinary scene extensively for NBC; Pacific San Diego Magazine, San Diego Downtown News, San Diego Uptown News, Gay San Diego, and Living in Style Magazine. You can reach him at [email protected].
