Many a restaurant has resided past the portals of the Aventine for varying periods of time, but I predict the most recent incarnation, Blue Coral, a self-described house of seafood and spirits, will have the staying power of its neighbors, Café Japengo and Fleming’s. In fact, Fleming’s, along with Roy’s and now Blue Coral, are all intertwined with Outback. How they came to be and the story of their success is for another time; suffice to say Blue Coral is the most recent star in the crown of corporate restaurant partnerships.
My first visit there was two days before the official opening, when Blue Coral hosted a fund-raiser for Scripps Foundation. When I sampled the crab cakes, caviar, sea scallops, marvelous shrimp scampi and, yes, sliced steak, then I knew it was my destiny to come back.
A couple thousand square feet have been added, plus a private dining room and a blue illumined wall in the bar, holding 60 vodkas from around the world and every possible liquor needed to mix culinary-driven cocktails, many muddled with fruit, all of them exotic, but I was there to dine, not to drink.
So I skipped the above-mentioned items and ordered tuna carpaccio, served with tiny tomatoes and capers, with a blood orange vinaigrette for dipping. Had I not already been in love, I would have fallen right then. I will take blood orange anytime; in fact, one of the house special cocktails, the coral, is on my list to try when I’m in a drinking mood.
The other appetizer I chose was the Atlantis, comprising oysters ” malpeque was the available one at the time ” giant prawns, yellowtail crudo and, along with that, king and Dungeness crab, shelled and sweet, ready for the assorted sauces from which to choose. All of it was served on a huge raised bowl, just waiting to be devoured. The only jarring note was the capers spread over the tuna carpaccio. That extra flavor didn’t work for me with the delicate fish.
Just a word about the aforementioned crab cakes, made from the colossal crabs with panko crumbs and a touch of mayonnaise for minimal filler, reminiscent of the ones I ate in the state where they originated, Maryland: Mm, mm, good! And the creamy shrimp scampi ” perfection!
Now it was time for the ultimate treat, listed on the menu as Maine lobster en fuego, which the chef calls, familiarly, “lounging lobster.” While I lounged, awaiting it, I spoke with Hans-Trevor Gossmann, an old friend from his stint at the Royal Brasserie downtown with credentials that include Le Cirque, Bellagio and the San Diego Wine and Culinary group, now the chef-partner here. The only request I made about the lobster was that he prepare it sans dairy product if that were normally included.
It comes up in conversation occasionally when asked what my ideal meal would be, and my answer always is “plain broiled lobster and champagne,” but now ” after tasting the en fuego version ” I must modify it to say forget the broiled, go with en fuego. Absolutely over the top. Hans had removed the meat, seasoned it brilliantly and replaced it in the shell so it appeared to be double the volume. Gorgeous to look at and heaven to eat. If I could afford it, that would be my daily dinner, cholesterol be damned! The accompanying veggies, grilled and seasoned with a balsamic spice, were the perfect partner.
Blue Coral, located at 8990 University Center Lane in the Aventine, is open evenings only. For information, call (858) 453-2583.