100 Wines Hillcrest
1027 University Ave. (Hillcrest)
619-491-0100
Prices: Starters, salads and pizzas, $4 $15.50; boards and entrees, $14 to $18.

By Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review

The uber-cozy farmhouse theme inside 100 Wines Hillcrest feels remarkably un-forced, as though the embedded-stone walls and iron chandeliers were transported intact from an old European inn. Unlike its Italian predecessor, Buonisimo2, this latest venture by Cohn Restaurant Group tones down the kitsch, sticking to scant memorabilia that designer Philippe Beltran toted over from France. A few tin boxes here, a pair of dungaree overalls hanging there, the décor and soft lighting leaves you wishing there was a back bedroom for sleeping overnight.

As intended, 100 Wines is more of a restaurant than an actual wine bar. Yes, there are copious labels poking out from tarnished metal cubbies, along with chalkboards categorizing the wines without complication: $20 for “friendly,” $30 for “intriguing” and $40 for “adventurous.” But the bare, wood tables arranged rather tightly throughout the space ultimately set the stage for Old World meals marked by contemporary twists, starting with complimentary roasted chickpeas delivered in their pods when you arrive. Think single-bean edamame.

Chef Katherine Humphus from Cohn’s Bo-beau Kitchen + Bar in Ocean Beach oversees the gustatory experience, with many of her dishes served on boards and undersized plates. For the top-selling flash-fried cauliflower, the florets spill out from a glass jar and trail down a rectangular board. Pancetta, shaved Parmesan and balsamic Port reduction strewn over the arrangement add to the nibbling frenzy.

Another starter of melted brie mixed with toasted nuts and berry jam came in a hot cast iron pan with crostini parked alongside. Cozy and delicious, its fondue-like texture upstaged a similar pan of heated house-made mozzarella with basil and marinated tomatoes. Mozzarella doesn’t melt as thoroughly; thus it resulted in a stringy, unmanageable operation as the curds began cooling.

Cubes of crispy pork belly resembling puffy croutons were show stealers in a mixed green salad crowned with a poached egg, which I’m seeing used on everything nowadays, and without complaint. The fatty proteins were balanced beautifully by piquillo peppers and ginger-apple dressing, adding a refreshing snap when needed.

As my companion finished her plucky lavender martini with the promised sugar rim astray, we moved onto the wine list for our main courses. Glass prices are also simply spelled out at $6, $8 or $10 per generous pour. From the middle rung, I took an immediate liking to Dominio de Heredia Tempranillo, a Spanish varietal that delivered herbaceous overtones and lively tannins. An inky-red Cabernet ($10) from Paso Robles was spot-on fruitier, while the Bordeaux blend ($6) that we should have started with registered as thin and acidic in comparison.

From a concise list of inspired pizzas that includes “grilled filet” and white anchovy with fried capers, we were lured by the notion of dill cream cheese on the spanakopita pie. A swell match to red wine of any varietal, it was topped also with sautéed spinach, feta, an oozy egg (again) and fluffy chards of phyllo pastry that added a titillating dry contrast to the wet ingredients.

Pork occo bucco is braised for four hours in stock and served in a pond of comforting carrot ragu. The shank was exceptionally tender and flavorful, even to my companion whose fondness for pork is limited only to bacon. The plate also featured grilled sriracha corn on the cob, which sounded better on paper given that we couldn’t see or taste any kicky sriracha sauce on the kernels.

Our other entrée involved a skewer of grilled shrimp, slightly overcooked, but marinated lovingly in honey and sprinkled with discernible ancho chili seasoning. Avocado puree, fennel salad and slices large, pretty radishes with crimson centers contributed artistic flair to the presentation.

Sedated by the wines and softly lit atmosphere, we sprung back to life over a piping-hot “sugar and spice cinnamon roll” served in cast iron and cascading with tongue-tickling icing. As we dug in, a very buttery bottom surfaced, making it one of the best and over-the-top rolls we’ve seen in a long time.

Our servers were informative, cheerful and efficient as they tended also to a large group occupying the inviting back patio, which offers a warm glow from a custom-built fireplace. Outdoor seating extends to the new sidewalk patio as well, though no matter where you perch, the farmhouse ambiance locks you in a warm embrace.