Downtown area chefs, restaurant owners weigh in on dining preferences

By Frank Sabatini Jr.

Forget the notion that chefs and restaurateurs who work 60-plus hours a week never have time to indulge in San Diego’s teeming culinary scene. Though perhaps not as frequently as the people they feed, and rarely on weekend nights, it’s practically an industry requirement they break away for meals presented by their competitors and colleagues.

With their discerning palates always in high gear, we asked several movers and shakers in the business what dish sent them over the moon in 2015 and what restaurant they haven’t yet visited that sits at the top of their bucket list for the year ahead.

Martin San Roman, executive chef at Dobson’s Bar & Restaurant
956 Broadway Circle, 619-231-6771

Favorite dish: “It was the lamb belly taco at Aqui es Texoco in Chula Vista. They cook the meat for 24 hours and add broth made from the juice of the lamb. They also put in fresh cilantro and raw onions. I love their fresh green tomatillo salsa with the taco.”

Must try: “I’m hearing good things about the food and the beautiful view at Coasterra. They can seat up to 500 people and I want to go with a big group of family and friends to see how they do Mexican food.”

Jean Francois Fays, executive pastry chef at Le Parfait Paris
555 G St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619-245-4457

Favorite dish: “I loved the trout almondine at La Bonne Table in Hillcrest. It’s a simple dish but the technique of flouring and seasoning the fish must be very subtle before cooking it in the pan with butter. Then you have to deglaze the pan with lemon juice. This place really has it down for making it right.”

Must try: “I’m anxious for Madison on Park to open soon in University Heights. We consulted with them about their dessert menu and what we saw on other parts of the menu is going to be top notch. There’s an awesome Italian fish dish on it, some good pasta dishes and excellent cocktails.”

Russell Rummer, executive chef at Croce’s Park West
2760 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619-233-4355

Favorite dish: “It was the char-grilled Akaushi ribeye at Island Prime, which was one of the best steaks I think I ever had in my life. It literally melted in your mouth.”

Must try: “What I am most excited to try is Richard Blais’ Crack Shack. I can’t wait to see the combination of his fine dining training in a fast, casual atmosphere. And I love chicken with eggs!”

Christian Graves, executive chef at Jsix
616 J St., East Village, 619-531-8744

Favorite dish: “The ceviche at Nine-Ten in La Jolla was one of the most delicious things I had last year. Chef Jason Knibbs used chocolate clams, a variety from Mexico, in what was almost like a tomato base. It was ocean-water bright and with perfect acidity.”

Must try: “I’m looking forward to trying Brian Malarkey’s new restaurant (Sea Salt & The Herb Box) that he’s opening in Little Italy sometime in 2016. I understand it’s going to be Southern California cuisine mixed with food retail products. And I haven’t tried the Crack Shack in Little Italy yet. Fried chicken is kind of my weakness.”

Kevin Templeton, executive chef at Barleymash
600 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619-255-7373

Favorite dish: “It was at Carnitas Snack Shack. I went there for a band meeting and we ordered everything off the menu, and the meatloaf sandwich was my favorite. It had bold flavors and came with a big slice of meatloaf on nice focaccia bread. My close second was their triple BLT.”

Must try: “I’ve heard nothing but great things about Kettner Exchange. I rarely get out to dine and when I do, it’s usually to hole-in-the-wall, no-name places. This is one of the higher end restaurants that I want to try.”

Aldo Negrete, executive chef at Rare Form
795 J St., East Village, 619-255-6507

Favorite dish: “It’s not a fancy food, but it was the lobster roll from Ironside Fish & Oyster. The buttered brioche was fresh and crispy and the lobster was juicy and cooked perfectly. On top were some really nice crispy shallots.”

Must try: “I’ve been hearing amazing things about the cooking techniques used at Catania in La Jolla. They’re supposedly doing whole roasted fish and making delicious pizzas — simple Italian food but done right.”

Randy Smerik, owner of Solare Ristorante
2820 Roosevelt Road, Point Loma, 619-270-9670

Favorite dish: “The albacore two ways at Bracero in Little Italy blew me away because of the incredible blend of freshness, flavors and textures that were magically put together. It had wonderful citrus from lime, crispy eggplant, and jalapeno ponzu for a final wrap up.”

Must try: “I’ve been wanting to try Sushi Tadokoro in Old Town because I heard their sushi chef is on fire and that he’ll make whatever you want. My son went there and sent me incredible photos of the food.”

Brad Kraten, executive chef at Saltbox
1047 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619-515-3003

Favorite dish: “The tonkasu ramen at Ramen Yamadaya, which recently opened Downtown on Broadway. It had a rich broth, thicker-than-usual pieces of pork belly, and the egg was cooked just right with a little runniness in the center. I’ve been to other ramen houses in San Diego, but they just didn’t hit the mark like this place.”

Must try: “We had our annual meeting last year at Juniper & Ivy, although I was too tired to go that night. It’s on my list because our chefs who attended the meeting have all been recommending it.”

—Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of “Secret San Diego” (ECW Press), and began his local writing career more than two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. You can reach him at [email protected].