By Frank Sabatini Jr.

When news broke in late summer that a Boston transplant would open an eatery in North Park specializing in authentic lobster rolls and other Beantown fare, local foodies stood by with bated breath in the hope that someone in San Diego might accurately replicate the celebrated, unpretentious cuisine we rarely encounter in Southern California. At less than a month old, Pete’s Seafood and Sandwich is already gaining “stah” power for getting it right.

Owner Pete DeCoste worked at his family’s restaurant for 24 years in the Boston area before moving to San Diego. His personable, native accent is still intact, as he drops his r’s here and there while explaining that the “lobstah” rolls and clam “chowdah” are the real deal.

For the lobster rolls, he uses chunky claw and knuckle meat brought in from Maine. Dressed lightly in mayo, and without celery as some New Englanders prefer, the lobster is piled generously into rolls that resemble inside-out hot dog buns. DeCoste sources them from a Boston bakery, emphasizing that buttering and grilling them upon order is imperative.

Our party of three was unanimously swooned by the tender meat as it tumbled from the crispy fat-slathered bun. Unless you start off with a fork, it’s a messy affair that requires you keep the serving basket parked directly under your chin.

Clam chowder is available by the cup or bowl in sturdy cardboard containers. With a precise semi-thick consistency, its flavor was somewhat restrained until we added black pepper and salty oyster crackers, both of which teased out the comforting flavor of the broth.

Hot and cold sandwiches are also available. And in classic back-East style, they’re well-endowed.

“You’re gonna get meat in every bite,” DeCoste assured when describing the “Italian cold-cut” sandwich on a sub roll filled with salami, capicola, mortadella and Provolone cheese. Moistened with a little oil and vinegar, it’s exactly the kind of bomber you’d see slung from Italian mom-and-pop eateries in cities like Boston, Philly or New York — soft to the bite and rich in the mouth.

Four slices of house-made meatloaf comprised a hot sandwich we ordered, which was served on fresh brioche with tomatoes, bacon, Swiss cheese, horseradish mayo and delectably sweet onion jam. The construct is less New England than it is a successful, gourmet rendition of an American classic.

We also tried the fish and chips, made with flaky Alaskan cod that’s dusted in exceptionally fine corn flour DeCoste buys from a company in Massachusetts. The accompanying fries are twice-cooked, and the tartar sauce on the side contains plenty of diced pickles plus a sweetish, secret ingredient DeCoste doesn’t want revealed. If you want fresh lemon with the dish, as I always prefer, you’ll need to ask for it.

From a short list of sides, we opted for a chilled medley of roasted corn, black beans and red onions. Dressed in light vinaigrette, it struck a less sinful contrast to the heavier items blanketing our table.

Other menu choices include oyster, shrimp or eggplant po’ boys; chicken Parmesan or pork cutlet sandwiches; grilled hot dogs; and more.

DeCoste’s double-storefront venture occupies what used to be Sea Rocket Bistro and Bazinga Eatery after that. The space has been brightened up with neutral colors and a big, bold mural of an East Coast harbor scene in the second dining room. The atmosphere is decidedly casual as the smell of chowder, lobster and fried seafood suggests the environment of a Boston wharf. The food, in most cases, instantly transports you there.