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SDNews.com
Home SDNews

Mamma Mia cooks up centuries of Italian culture

Tech by Tech
February 13, 2008
in SDNews
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Leaning on a dark wooden table, both hands moving constantly, Francesco Mezzetti gave a quick Italian lesson. “There are two big phrases in Italy,” he said. “One is ciao, bella, you know ” hello, gorgeous. The other is Mamma Mia.”
At Mamma Mia Ristorante Italiano e Pizzeria, 1932 Balboa Ave., owners Francesco and Cinzia Mezzetti give daily lessons in enjoying food and friends. Cinzia’s creativity and cooking, paired with Francesco’s personality and pricing, create a recipe for success that keeps customers coming back or carrying out, sometimes several meals per week.
“With really good food and affordable prices, it is impossible to fail,” Francesco said.
The couple, both natives of Italy with two centuries of the restaurant business in their families, had owned Ciao Bella in La Mesa for several years. They sold it to buy the property in Pacific Beach and opened the doors in April 2007. One month later, they had a full slate of reservations every night, and that pattern has continued ever since.
“We’ve lived all over San Diego, and Pacific Beach is the most energetic community,” Francesco said. “We like the energy, the young people here, people with families, older people ” it’s got everything.”
The pair musters plenty of their own energy, spending 16-hour days in the restaurant and serving 200 to 300 dinners per day, according to Francesco.
Cinzia is the artist and organizer in the cucina, creating her own recipes from centuries of family traditions and making everything from scratch, including bread, salad dressing, pasta and desserts. Francesco takes the role of frontman and businessman ” greeting customers, kissing hands and making sure that the spoons arrive on time for the tiramisu.
“My wife is the only one to cook,” Francesco said. “There can only be one hand in the kitchen.”
“Cooking is so easy for me,” Cinzia said. “It’s my passion, my routine.” She remembers making sandwiches in her grandfather’s bar and restaurant in Naples, Italy, when she was 3 or 4 years old. “I love the work.”
Along with several specials each night, Cinzia offers signature dishes for carnivores and vegetarians, such as Gnocchi Mamma Mia with tomato and cream sauce, and cheese ravioli in a walnut Gorgonzola sauce. Cinzia’s panzerotti, similar to mini calzones deep fried in oil and served with a marinara sauce, are the restaurant’s bestseller.
“I want to surprise . . . I don’t just follow the recipe,” she said. “I just put together what I like and use my imagination. But I also have to be really organized because of the time.”
Francesco does all the shopping for the restaurant every morning. “I watch, I pick, I buy,” he said. “It’s got to be fresh.” And when it’s time for the customers to choose, many don’t even look at the menu. They query him, the staff or other patrons who have already been served.
“People ask each other what to eat, like they’ve known each other for years,” he smiled.
“People feel at home; that’s the best part for me.”
To keep the flavor of the restaurant throughout, Francesco hires Italians or Italian-Americans, and the language is often that of the old country.
“The energy of the place has to be as good as the food,” he said. “They work hard, but they’re very happy.”
The next course for the Mezzettis is to purchase the property next door to the restaurant, another beach house-turned-business, to open a wine bar. They plan to import the wine from Italy and label it locally as Mamma Mia to ensure that it’s both tasty and affordable. Then guests can either stay at the wine bar or walk over to the restaurant for a full meal. Their license to serve beer and wine at the restaurant should arrive next week, according to Francesco; they are still in the process of applying for a license for the wine bar.
Given the time spent at work, the couple is grateful that their home and two young daughters are within walking distance. “You asked me what my favorite thing is. They’re it,” Cinzia said.
Recently Fiamma, 4, and Greta, 3, joined their mother at a special cooking class for their preschool at St. Paul’s Lutheran Church. “You should’ve seen 36 little kids making pizza, doing the rolling . . . they were so into it,” Cinzia said.
Cinzia also teaches older students through her cooking classes on pasta, family cooking and the Mediterranean diet.
“Eating is one of the best things in life,” Francesco said. “This is our culture, and we want to keep the culture going. If all you think about is the money, you’ve got the wrong priorities. We love what we do, and the money comes after. We make good things, and people appreciate it.”
Mamma Mia is open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. For more information, call (858) 272-2702 or visit www.cinziascookingclass.com.

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