Japan native James Holder has shaken up the model of a traditional sushi house with his recent launch of James’ Place, which occupies the long-shuttered Jai by Wolfgang Puck in the UCSD theater district. Sashimi and creative sushi rolls abound, but if you come knocking for Gruyere-topped burgers, Baja tacos or Spanish paella using Canadian lobster tail, the menu obliges. The restaurant’s eclectic bill of fare, Holder says, is tailored to meet the appetites of “students, adults, children and visitors to the nearby La Jolla Playhouse” though without excluding die-hard fans of sushi, ramen and tempura. Holder learned the art of sushi-making in his hometown of Hiyama, Japan at the age of 13 from an uncle who owned a sushi bar. After moving to San Diego in 1985 during the sushi boom, he worked at Katsu in San Marcos and Mister Sushi in Encinitas. He later became co-executive chef at Café Japengo in La Jolla, where he worked for 14 years before opening Mitch’s in Palm Desert, a steak-and-seafood hotspot that he still operates. James’ Place greets with a sleek, modern design warmed by numerous hanging orb lanterns and an illuminated quartzite bar. Except on weekends, it is open for dinner only, although Holder assures that weekday lunch service will become available once he resolves “some parking issues on the campus.” Holder sources most of his fish from Japanese distributors. Having worked also at a fish market during his teen years, he’s acquired a sharp eye for quality and freshness. “I carry seafood that might be difficult to find in other sushi restaurants, such as Thai snapper and sea urchin,” he says. “And I like presenting my sushi on ice.” Though a stickler for tradition, Holder offers several modern rolls reflecting his days at Café Japengo, such as the “808,” named after the area code for Hawaii. The construct features snow crab, shrimp tempura and avocado with spicy tuna on top. His latest spin on the recipe involves the additions of macadamia nuts and spicy aioli. “Depending on the fish,” he says, “I make certain rolls without any sauces. But for others, I use truffle oil or yuzu to give some trigger to fish like yellowtail.” He also uses less rice and more proteins in many of the rolls in an effort to “make them a little healthier.” Hence, the mayonnaise-based pizza rolls and other rich creations he produced at Café Japengo have been dropped from the repertoire. In keeping abreast with the current ramen craze, Holder adheres to a personal standard. “I’m very picky about my noodles,” he says. “I don’t like them thick and starchy because they expand when sitting in the broth. Mine are much thinner than most.” For his miso ramen in particular, the noodles are kept at bay while allowing a riot of other ingredients to take center stage: charred siu pork, a seasoned egg, wok-fried veggies, bamboo shoots and red ginger. Bowls using soba and udon noodles are also in the offing. Veering from the lengthy list of Japanese specialties are steaks, domestic waygu burgers, herb-crusted rack of lamb and even English-style fish and chips. For his Spanish paella, which ranks among the top sellers, Holder ups the ante with the additions of grilled filet, grilled lobster tail, asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes. The drink list returns visitors to the Asian continent with a dozen sake options and signature cocktails that include ginger martinis. Oenophiles, however, will find a focused, California-leaning wine list featuring labels from Napa and Santa Barbara as well as from Chile and Europe. Holder’s initial fear of choosing the 3,900-square-foot space for his San Diego venture has been quelled since opening earlier this year. “I thought the location would be a challenge because, if Wolfgang Puck didn’t make it here, how was I going to make it? But my menu is more affordable and caters to a diverse clientele.”