By Dr. Ink

There is some serious grub flying around Salt & Cleaver, mostly in the form of gourmet sausages served on house buns over beds of organic greens. But if you’re on a booze crawl, the establishment feels like more of a drinking spot rather than a restaurant, given its inviting central bar, wood and brick walls, and towering chalk board listing the week’s craft beers.

Aside from a few industrial design twists, Salt & Cleaver is Fifth Avenue’s answer to a European pub. Both the staff and patrons are upbeat and unpretentious.

The mood was especially convivial on a cold, rainy Monday evening, when the windowed garage doors that are normally open to the front patio were rolled down, sealing in a larger-than-expected number of customers occupying nearly every stool at the bar.

Bad weather really does equate to better business, provided the place greets with a certain level of coziness inside. And a flat screen showing the Denver Broncos playing the Cincinnati Bengals fueled the intimate spirit in the room, mainly by the majority of Broncos fans.

Happy hour affords you $2 discounts on all tap beers and wines by the glass, plus a dozen or so enticing cocktails that extend to a handful of others under the category of “Respect Your Elders,” should you come knocking for a classic Manhattan or Sazerac.

After shaking off our wet umbrellas, my partner who eschews light, wimpy beer, settled in with a rich, smoked stout by Societe Brewing Co. called The Bellowsman. He approved of its chocolate and coffee notes, which I found somewhat soft-bodied when stealing a sip.

I ordered a stone fruit mule made with Tito’s Vodka and a comforting measure of apricot-peach brandy that added subtle sweetness. The other components were perfectly balanced – ginger beer, bitters, and lemon. Served in an icy-cold copper mug, it ironically warmed me from head to toe and actually brought relief to a mild sore throat.

Food isn’t discounted, but prices are reasonable and the selection is too tempting to pass up. On past visits, I’ve taken nose dives into the deep-fried “big daddy pickles” and chicken-mango sausage. This time around we went straight for the “bacon & bleu fries,” priced at $8.50.

Splayed across a cookie sheet, they were covered in green onions, big bacon pieces, blue cheese crumbles, and blue cheese béchamel sauce. What we thought would serve merely as a bar snack turned out to be dinner.

In addition to weekday happy hour, Salt & Cleaver offers various daily specials such as $4 wells on Mondays; $8 beer flights on Tuesdays; and half-price bottles of wine on Thursdays. For further details, inquire within, and you’ll likely end up making this your one and only stop for the night.