{"id":252072,"date":"2017-08-25T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2017-08-25T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/fine-tuned-vegan-fare\/"},"modified":"2017-08-25T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2017-08-25T07:00:00","slug":"fine-tuned-vegan-fare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/fine-tuned-vegan-fare\/","title":{"rendered":"Fine-tuned vegan fare"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Another vegan restaurant that raises the bar on vegan food has sprouted in Uptown, joining a list of others such as Donna Jean, Kindred and the long-established Plumeria a quarter-mile away.<\/p>\n<p>Grains, which launched five months ago, is still in its soft-opening as the kitchen develops new small plates to further complement 20 taps of craft beer.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_30340\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-30340\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-30340 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/web-Interior-wall.jpg\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-30340\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A wood-clad interior defines Uptown\u2019s newest vegan restaurant <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The venture is owned and operated by Pat Napatr and his sister, Katiya Hendricks, whose son, Jow, heads up the kitchen.<\/p>\n<p>Jow is a culinary graduate of The Art Institute of California \u2013 San Diego. And unlike his mom and uncle, he happens to be a carnivore, hence his knack for converting common animal-protein dishes into ones free of saturated fats.<\/p>\n<p>Exceptions are made, however, for those who prefer real-deal Parmesan or pepper jack cheese in certain dishes.<\/p>\n<p>I opted for the latter on a scrumptious Philly cheesesteak that uses grilled button cap mushrooms instead of seiten or soy to achieve its meaty flavor. My only beef with the sandwich was that I wished the green bell peppers were saut\u00e9ed to the same tender sweetness as the onions.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_30338\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-30338\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-30338 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/web-Cauliflower.jpg\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-30338\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cauliflower with Buffalo sauce and vegan ranch dressing <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>If I gave up meat, which would mean saying goodbye to dearly loved chicken wings, I\u2019d pop in regularly for the Buffalo-style cauliflower.<\/p>\n<p>Served with vegan ranch dressing and obligatory celery and carrot sticks, the florets were roasted to a fine crisp and judiciously tossed in classic, cayenne pepper sauce.<\/p>\n<p>King oyster mushrooms are used to mimic the texture of calamari, and to a surprising degree, the flavor. Coated in tempura-like batter and lightly fried, the pieces are dusted in minced garlic and scallions. We especially loved the green house-made dipping sauce containing lemon juice, cilantro, serrano chilies and a touch of sugar.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_30270\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-30270\" style=\"width: 605px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-30270 size-full lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/web-MAIN-Fried-kale.jpg\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"605\" height=\"350\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 605px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 605\/350;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-30270\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lightly battered deep-fried kale <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The same spicy sauce accompanied a bouquet of kale tempura, which wasn\u2019t nearly as boring as I anticipated. The fried, brittle leaves somehow escaped the harsh one-dimensional earthiness I find with kale.<\/p>\n<p>Drawing from the owners\u2019 Thai heritage, the menu extends to larb tofu salad spiked with lime; drunken angel hair noodles with chili peppers and ginger root; yellow curry with tofu and potatoes; and exceptional quinoa fettuccini in Asian-style mushroom broth.<\/p>\n<p>We ordered the latter after Napatr described the broth as \u201clighter than gravy and not as soupy as soup.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>He was spot on as the savory liquid offered just the right amount of viscosity to stick to the lightweight, pan-seared noodles. We devoured everything in the dish, right down to the last ingredient, which included steamed tofu, sliced mushrooms and tender bok choy.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_30341\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-30341\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-30341 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/web-Noodles1.jpg\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-30341\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quinoa fettuccini with tofu and veggies in mushroom broth <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>As for the tiny pond of remaining broth in the bowl, we eagerly mopped it up with some of the crispy garlic-parsley potato wedges that came with the cheesesteak.<\/p>\n<p>Even in forging ahead to the only available dessert \u2014 sticky rice topped with fresh mango and coconut milk \u2014 we left without sinking into a food coma. For this meat eater, that\u2019s one of the joys of eating vegan every now and then, not to mention how well modern chefs have mastered the art.<\/p>\n<p>Other dishes include a grilled version of the mushroom calamari; kale salad with roasted almonds, dried cranberries and caper vinaigrette; and a top-selling pulled \u201cpork\u201d sandwich made with five-spice tofu, jackfruit and pickled veggies.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_30339\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-30339\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-30339 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/web-Faux-calamari.jpg\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-30339\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mushroom calamari<em> (Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Grains operates in a double-storefront that previously housed Adams Avenue Grill.<\/p>\n<p>The redesigned look is bright and airy and warmed by potted plants and two types of wood gracing the dining room.<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-30342 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/Grains-sidebar.png\" alt=\"Fine-tuned vegan fare\" width=\"200\" height=\"221\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 200px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 200\/221;\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In addition to its lengthy beer selection, the drink list extends to nearly a dozen wines available by the glass or bottle at affordable prices.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of \u201cSecret San Diego\u201d (ECW Press), and began his local writing career more than two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. Reach him at <\/em><a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/em><\/a><em>. <\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":816,"featured_media":252073,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11555","_seopress_titles_title":"Fine-tuned vegan fare","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11551,11550,11555],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-252072","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-top-stories","category-uptown-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/252072","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/816"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=252072"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/252072\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/252073"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=252072"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=252072"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=252072"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}