{"id":251889,"date":"2017-07-14T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2017-07-14T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/destroying-stereotypes\/"},"modified":"2017-07-14T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2017-07-14T07:00:00","slug":"destroying-stereotypes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/destroying-stereotypes\/","title":{"rendered":"Destroying stereotypes"},"content":{"rendered":"

Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>\n

There is much to absorb at Kindred, a bustling plant-based restaurant and cocktail bar that pays exceptional detail to food, mixology and design.<\/p>\n

Whatever your dietary preference, if you haven\u2019t dropped in for at least a shrewdly crafted intoxicant to wash down a bowl of popcorn seasoned brilliantly with dill, chives and garlic-chili \u201ccologne,\u201d you\u2019re about three years late \u2014 just as I was.<\/p>\n

\"Destroying
Smoked tofu lardons in potato salad with seasonal veggies (Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The words \u201cvegan\u201d and \u201cmock meat\u201d are deliberately omitted from the menu in an effort to bust the notion that vegan food is inferior or different than non-vegan food.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve tailored the menu with heavy proteins and rich flavors,\u201d said co-owner Kory Stetina, who produced pop-up vegan beer dinners before opening Kindred with the help of acclaimed local designer Paul Basile.<\/p>\n

Located on the corner lot where Alchemy stood, the motif greets with a gorgeously contrasted blend of French Victorian and devious Gothic appointments. Large windows that open to the street were also installed. And with a tatted, pierced and efficient staff in place, the vibe nods peacefully to the heavy-metal music culture as well.<\/p>\n

\"Destroying
Kindred\u2019s eye-popping mascot dominates a portion of the dining room (Photo by Studio Maha)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Most impressive is an artistically menacing replica of a wolf\u2019s head jutting from a wall lined with booths. Its eyes point to a central cluster of chandelier liquor shelves suspended over the marble top bar.<\/p>\n

Behind the bar is a more feminine touch \u2014 pink and white wallpaper that appears at first glance like it belongs in the bedroom of a Victorian house. A closer look at its custom-print insignia reveals sword-fighting eyeballs and six-armed girls. Somehow everyone feels right at home here.<\/p>\n

My vegetarian dining companion chose the first meal course, a board named the \u201cdeli battle.\u201d A riot of novel flavors ensued from curly slices of seitan spiced with oranges and red chili; a miso cashew \u201ccheese\u201d ball embedded with cubed figs for sweetness; thin disks of golden beets kissed with a touch of smokiness; and crostini brushed with olive oil.<\/p>\n

\"Destroying
The \u201cdeli battle\u201d board (Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The condiments were equally enthralling: kale-pepperoncini pesto and lemon-tomato relish. Nothing on the board lost our interest as we ferociously obliterated a large bowl of the herby popcorn, which we spritzed with an accompanying wedge of lemon.<\/p>\n

We proceeded to char-grilled seitan skewers dressed with harissa, horseradish aioli and chimichurri. My companion loved the hectic combination of sauces. I would have preferred two less for enjoying the meaty, grilled flavor of the seitan.<\/p>\n

The \u201cemerald\u201d salad is a new item featuring soft lettuces encircled by edamame, farro, fried chickpeas, Sriracha almonds and apricots. It\u2019s garnished with a piece of outstanding sesame-peanut brittle the kitchen should box and sell. With non-dairy arugula tzatziki dressing the fibrous salad, the medley exploded blissfully with creaminess.<\/p>\n

\"Destroying
Memphis BBQ jackfruit sandwich with house chips (Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Un-ripened jackfruit, which closely mimics pulled pork, appears between toasted sourdough with Memphis-style barbecue sauce, green chili aioli, Dijon mustard, onions and house pickles. The combined flavors were aggressive, but surprisingly harmonious.<\/p>\n

\"Destroying
A tropical rum-based
\u201cdeadweight\u201d cocktail
(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

From a list of five entrees, we were tempted at first by the beer-battered palm tacos served with seaweed salad and grilled corn. But my friend hankered for a bigger dose of protein, so we agreed to share the smoked tofu lardons.<\/p>\n

The small pieces of faux pork fat were strewn throughout creamy potato salad tossed likely in cashew milk. Complemented by shaved asparagus, grilled yellow squash and Cajun-seasoned parsnip strips, it\u2019s a dish that non-vegans in rural America would easily embrace on a summer picnic.<\/p>\n

We tried a few concoctions from the well-stocked bar, including the \u201cdeadweight\u201d layered with rum, herbal liqueur (Strega), lime and coconut milk.<\/p>\n

It was as tasty and pretty as the non-alcoholic \u201cblack magic punch,\u201d which invigorates the palate with blackcurrant kombucha, orange juice, ginger, grenadine and crushed blackberries.<\/p>\n

\"DestroyingStetina and head chef Jeremy Scullin, who came from Vedge restaurant in Philadelphia, are currently testing traditional cheese-making techniques for producing vegan cheeses made from nut milks.<\/p>\n

Steina says he hopes to roll out the results in a few months.<\/p>\n

\u2014Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of \u201cSecret San Diego\u201d (ECW Press), and began his local writing career more than two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. Reach him at <\/em>fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/em><\/a>. <\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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