{"id":250747,"date":"2016-09-23T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2016-09-23T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/madeleines-baby-sister\/"},"modified":"2016-09-23T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2016-09-23T07:00:00","slug":"madeleines-baby-sister","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/madeleines-baby-sister\/","title":{"rendered":"Madeleine\u2019s baby sister \u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Her christening party two weeks ago featured free crepes for everyone and the arrival of flower boxes outside her home. Inside, a freshly built kitchen and espresso bar were already in place for the early-August birth of this darling newcomer to North Park.<\/p>\n<p>Say hello to Caf\u00e9 Madeleine. She\u2019s the namesake sibling of the humble crepery in South Park, which Christine Perez launched several years ago under the culinary guidance of two French transplants: restaurateur Jerome Gombert of the former Vagabond, and chef Patrick Ponsaty, who headed up fine-dining kitchens locally and internationally before landing at Bellamy\u2019s in Escondido.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_26616\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26616\" style=\"width: 605px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Crepe-on-grillweb.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-26616 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Crepe-on-grillweb.jpg\" alt=\"A crepe in the making (Photos by Frank Sabatini Jr.)\" width=\"605\" height=\"350\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 605px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 605\/350;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-26616\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A crepe in the making (Photos by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>With a similar Parisian-style fa\u00e7ade as the caf\u00e9 in South Park, Madeleine\u2019s second location is bigger. And in terms of food and ambiance, it\u2019s the closest thing you\u2019ll find locally to an authentic French brasserie.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_26651\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26651\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Omelet.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-26651 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Omelet-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Wild mushroom omelet with roasted potatoes\" width=\"600\" height=\"449\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/449;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-26651\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wild mushroom omelet with roasted potatoes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A generous row of caf\u00e9 tables occupying the inviting sidewalk patio leads into a roomy and solid interior. Detailed wood trim wraps around the espresso bar and order counter while Venetian-plastered walls set a neutral backdrop for such elegant touches as a large marble-top table displaying magazines and fresh flowers. Perched against a front wall are antiquated trolley doors, which based on their inscription, likely originated from France.<\/p>\n<p>Fronting the semi-open kitchen is a crepe-making area that allows customers to watch the cooks pour batter onto traditional, round grills before nudging it around with wood turners as it bubbles and cooks \u2014 just like you\u2019d see of crepe vendors in any French city, but sans their animated maneuvers.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_26650\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26650\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Coffee-and-cookies.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-26650 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Coffee-and-cookies-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Caffe au lait with Madeleine cookies\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-26650\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caffe au lait with Madeleine cookies<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I\u2019ve had Madeleine\u2019s savory and dessert crepes in South Park, and the lemon-butter crepe here. Cooked consistently to golden outcomes and folded craftily into rectangles, they\u2019re a tad thicker than what I\u2019ve had in France, but transporting nonetheless.<\/p>\n<p>Unique to baby Madeleine\u2019s menu are classic French sandwiches using crusty melt-in-your-mouth baguettes sourced from Bread &amp; Cei. Also newly introduced are a few egg dishes, such as an exquisitely earthy mushroom omelet folding in saut\u00e9ed shitake, Portobello, oyster and crimini varieties.<\/p>\n<p>In addition, there\u2019s nicoise salad arranged in traditional sections of haricots verts (thin green beans), hard-boiled egg, small dark-purple olives, capers and baby potatoes. The spuds, however, were plain and undercooked compared to those served with the mushroom omelet and kissed by herbs de Provence and roasted red bell peppers.<\/p>\n<p>In the French city of Nice, this composed salad is accented with sardines. Yet in the casual brasserie culture of Paris, and at Madeleine, it\u2019s topped with canned tuna \u2014 in this case perfectly acceptable albacore. Apparently some customers have squawked about it, preferring seared ahi or the sardines instead. I vote for not changing a thing.<\/p>\n<p>The saucisson baguette sandwich I consumed was divine. Similar to what bakeries and street vendors throughout Europe start selling at the crack of dawn, this adhered to the less-is-better approach with a single layer of French-cured salami, semi-sweet cornichons, tomatoes and thinly sliced cucumbers. No cheese or condiments are needed; it\u2019s just a basic sandwich with sophisticated flavor.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_26652\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26652\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Salad-nicois.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-26652 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Salad-nicois-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Nicoise salad\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-26652\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicoise salad<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Other sandie choices include brie, country pate, French ham and Moroccan lamb sausage. Coming at the end of September are a few dinner entrees such as coq au vin and beef bourguignon, which will coincide aptly to beer and wine when it becomes available later in the season.<\/p>\n<p>For now, the beverage list comprises a slate of coffee drinks using beans and techniques by Illy, and an alchemic presentation of lemonade that starts with fresh-squeezed lemon juice filling about a third of a tall glass.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s served with a small pitcher of cold water, a bowl of sugar cubes and sprigs of mint, thus allowing you to control the strength and flavor of the drink. (I achieved desirable medium tartness by using three parts water, four sugar cubes and a few mint leaves.)<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Screen-Shot-2016-09-23-at-9.28.18-AM.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-26649 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/Screen-Shot-2016-09-23-at-9.28.18-AM-235x300.png\" alt=\"screen-shot-2016-09-23-at-9-28-18-am\" width=\"235\" height=\"300\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 235px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 235\/300;\" \/><\/a>Confections include everything from house-baked croissants and pastries to scratch-made Madeleine cookies and dessert crepes spiked with fresh fruit, Nutella or pastry cream.<\/p>\n<p>As I learned from Madeleine\u2019s original location, and I will do so here, it takes multiple visits to fully discover all of her French delights, which strongly resemble any you\u2019ll find while lolling in a caf\u00e9 along the Seine River.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014Frank Sabatini Jr. es el autor de \u201cSecret San Diego\u201d (ECW Press), y comenz\u00f3 su carrera como escritor local hace m\u00e1s de dos d\u00e9cadas como miembro del personal del ex San Diego Tribune. Puedes localizarlo en <\/em><a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\"><em>fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/em><\/a><em>. <\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":816,"featured_media":250748,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11555","_seopress_titles_title":"Madeleine\u2019s baby sister \u00a0","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11551,11550,11555],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-250747","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-top-stories","category-uptown-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250747","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/816"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=250747"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/250747\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/250748"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=250747"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=250747"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=250747"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}