{"id":248670,"date":"2015-05-22T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2015-05-22T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/this-is-poutine\/"},"modified":"2015-05-22T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2015-05-22T07:00:00","slug":"this-is-poutine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/this-is-poutine\/","title":{"rendered":"This is poutine"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>\n<p>When I lived in Buffalo, New York and frequented Toronto, poutine was the go-to dish for soaking up alcohol after nights of spirited bar hopping. Available only in Canada at the time, it was usually slung from casual diners and walk-up windows.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>By all accounts, these sobering piles of French fries blitzed in cheese curds and brown gravy date to the late 1950s in rural Quebec, where French-Canadians gave the concoction its provincial name, a slang word for \u201cmushy mess.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Poutine has since leapt beyond the confines of greasy-spoon eateries and into mainstream restaurants, spreading throughout the U.S. with versions that don\u2019t always pass muster with flag-waving Canadians.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_21353\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21353\" style=\"width: 650px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Classic-poutine1web.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21353 size-full lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Classic-poutine1web.jpg\" alt=\"Classic poutine1web\" width=\"650\" height=\"488\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 650px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 650\/488;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21353\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Classic poutine makes its way from Quebec to Hillcrest at Mess Royale (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Although at <a href=\"http:\/\/m.mainstreethub.com\/messroyale\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Mess Royale<\/a>, which opened in Hillcrest last month, Montreal transplant Hugo Tassone gives us a taste of the real deal by adhering to the exact standards for making it.<\/p>\n<p>He\u2019s also incorporated into the menu sandwiches using hand-stretched bagels shipped in from Montreal\u2019s eminent St-Viateur Bagel shop. And for those who think that Chicago is the only North American city that puts a signature stamp on hot dogs, Tassone exposes us to the wildly delicious \u201ctoasty dogs\u201d served on grilled, buttered rollseHe that became concession-stand trademarks at the Montreal Forum during hockey games.<\/p>\n<p>For the poutine, Mess Royale uses hand-cut fries that are double-fried. The gravy comprises a secret blend of spices and meat stocks. It\u2019s thin and somewhat salty \u2013 not much different from American brown gravy except for its subtle, caramelized flavor detected by the keenest of palates.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_21352\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21352\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Bagel-with-salmonweb.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21352 size-medium lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Bagel-with-salmonweb-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Bagel with salmonweb\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21352\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Don\u2019t miss the Norwegian salmon bagel sandwich (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Cheese curds are the critical ingredient, providing the soft, buttery joy spots strewn throughout the dish. Tassone searched high and low for them in the U.S. before finding a Wisconsin dairy farm that produces the curds with the exact same flavor and texture as those used in Quebec.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s a young cheese that has to feel a little squeaky between your teeth,\u201d he says, adding that he goes through nearly 200 pounds of the curds every week.<\/p>\n<p>Both the gravy and cheese are present in all of Mess Royale\u2019s poutines, which extend to about a dozen other versions beyond the \u201coriginal.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The \u201cTony,\u201d for example, kept us equally engaged. It\u2019s crowned with sweet Italian sausage and zingy banana peppers, which so many San Diego kitchens sadly overlook in lieu of jalapenos. They\u2019re simply not the same thing.<\/p>\n<p>If you prefer carne asada, pastrami or chicken and mushrooms in the mix, the menu obliges with several other modern varieties, including the \u201cmorning recovery\u201d featuring bacon, sausage and a fried egg.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_21354\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-21354\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Poutine-with-sausage-and-peppers1web.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-21354 size-medium lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Poutine-with-sausage-and-peppers1web-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Poutine with sausage and peppers1web\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/225;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-21354\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Poutine with sausage and peppers (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>As one of the few people in the world who isn\u2019t nuts about bagels, the sesame-studded ones used here were a revelation because they\u2019re sweeter and airier than most. Arriving twice a week in refrigerated containers, the Montreal bakery dips them in honey water before cooking them in a wood-fired oven.<\/p>\n<p>We chose a bagel sandwich containing gently smoked Norwegian salmon, garnished generously with cream cheese, capers, red onions and tomatoes \u2013 a winner all the way around. Other sandwich choices include avocado with cream cheese and veggies; pastrami and Swiss; and roasted turkey with bacon, Jack cheese and chipotle mayo.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Screen-Shot-2015-05-21-at-5.16.33-PM.png\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-21435 size-medium lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/05\/Screen-Shot-2015-05-21-at-5.16.33-PM-174x300.png\" alt=\"Screen Shot 2015-05-21 at 5.16.33 PM\" width=\"174\" height=\"300\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 174px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 174\/300;\" \/><\/a>The \u201ctoasty dogs\u201d are a must, and they\u2019re free on Tuesdays with the purchase of any poutine. Tucked into an unconventional roll that\u2019s buttered and grilled on the outside, the dog is buried under a juicy mantle of marinated coleslaw, sweet relish, onions and mustard. Had we not been floating in poutine-bagel heaven, we could have eaten a dozen of them.<\/p>\n<p>Raves have been given to Mess Royale\u2019s grilled cheese sandwiches on country-style bread, which we didn\u2019t get around to trying. But we managed to squeeze in the \u201ccandied bacon bites\u201d featuring thick squares of skewered bacon glistening in beer-maple glaze. Just when you thought trendy bacon recipes have reached their end, these little dandies come to the rescue.<\/p>\n<p>Mess Royale greets with a bright, casual atmosphere featuring a giant rendition of the California flag altered by a bowl of poutine sitting beneath the bear\u2019s muzzle, and with the words: \u201cPoutine Republic\u201d written below. Indeed, Tassone\u2019s wish of \u201cbringing something unique to San Diego\u201d means we could now add \u201cCanadian\u201d into our ethnic dining options.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/em><em> se puede alcanzar en <\/em><a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\"><em>fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/em><\/a><em>.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Frank Sabatini Jr. When I lived in Buffalo, New York and frequented Toronto, poutine was the go-to dish for soaking up alcohol after nights of spirited bar hopping. Available only in Canada at the time, it was usually slung from casual diners and walk-up windows.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":816,"featured_media":248671,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11555","_seopress_titles_title":"This is poutine","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11547,11551,11555],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-248670","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","category-news","category-uptown-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248670","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/816"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=248670"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248670\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/248671"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=248670"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=248670"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=248670"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}