{"id":248000,"date":"2014-11-21T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2014-11-21T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/a-twist-of-kink\/"},"modified":"2014-11-21T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2014-11-21T08:00:00","slug":"a-twist-of-kink","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/a-twist-of-kink\/","title":{"rendered":"A twist of kink\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>\n<p>I usually hold up a couple of months on new restaurants wading through their dress rehearsals before going in with a notebook. But in the case of <a href=\"http:\/\/sausageandmeat.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Salchicha y Carne S&amp;M<\/a>, which restaurateur Scott Slater opened on Nov. 5, my inner carnivore couldn\u2019t wait another day.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>The provocatively named, artistically designed \u201cmeatery\u201d is Slater\u2019s first splinter project since establishing the burger and bacon-centric Slater\u2019s 50\/50 in several locations around Southern California, including those in Liberty Station and San Marcos.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_19153\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-19153\" style=\"width: 650px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Interiorweb.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-19153 size-full lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Interiorweb.jpg\" alt=\"Interiorweb\" width=\"650\" height=\"487\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 650px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 650\/487;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-19153\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">S&amp;M Sausage and Meat opened on Nov. 5 (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>At S&amp;M, indulgences of the flesh take daring leaps far beyond the half-beef, half-bacon burgers made famous at Slater\u2019s. Here, flavored bacon strips and craft sausages advance into what some will consider perverse territory: rabbit poutine, pig ears and beaver tacos.<\/p>\n<p>Regarding the latter, a sellout occurred in their initial introduction prior to my venture there.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMaybe next time, maybe never,\u201d I said to my companion about the beaver as other exotic meats such as kangaroo, alligator and antelope came into focus on the sausage list.<\/p>\n<p>Nearly the entire bill of fare is novel, although not every menu item is so eccentrically audacious. Bacon-fat deviled eggs with wasabi aioli, for instance, were decadent yet pedestrian compared to wolfing down dam builders and marsupials. The \u201cpork wings\u201d are mini bone-in shanks that derive their titillating sweetness from root beer and balsamic glaze, a tame adventure that doesn\u2019t disappoint.<\/p>\n<p>In addition, the menu offers vegetarians a few warm spots with vegan \u201cmushroom ears\u201d and faux Italian sausage links made with northern white beans, shiitake mushrooms and onions. More curious is the zany \u201ccoconut not mac n\u2019 cheese\u201d constructed with spaetzel, coconut and broccolini.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_19150\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-19150\" style=\"width: 250px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Bacon2web.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-19150 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Bacon2web-300x234.jpg\" alt=\"Garlic-rosemary bacon and strips coated in white chocolate and cashews (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)\" width=\"250\" height=\"195\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 250px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 250\/195;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-19150\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garlic-rosemary bacon and strips coated in white chocolate and cashews (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Sweet and savory bacon strips are sold in pairs for $3. There are currently eight different flavors, with more in the pipeline. Current options include sesame-soy, honey-Sriracha, brown sugar and more.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNow that bacon isn\u2019t looked at as just breakfast food, there\u2019s so much you can do with it,\u201d Slater said. \u201cS&amp;M is our arena to use it creatively.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>We loved the garlic-rosemary strips dusted with Parmesan cheese, although we didn\u2019t care much for the ones coated thickly in white chocolate and cashews. The chocolate and hickory cure of the bacon didn\u2019t marry in our opinion.<\/p>\n<p>But the blueberries, bacon and Brussels sprouts comprising the BBB salad very much did. If you normally eschew those little orbs of cabbage, you\u2019ll be surprised at how easily they go down in this original presentation, which also includes a touch of feta cheese and mustard vinaigrette.<\/p>\n<p>Assorted sausages can be ordered on fresh buns with house-made toppings or on boards with mustard and accouterments. Most of them hail from Masterlink in Orange County, although by January, many will be made in-house by S&amp;M Chef Mark Younggren, formerly of The Linkery.<\/p>\n<p>My companion\u2019s Portuguese-pineapple link topped with tzatziki and roasted red peppers was plump, juicy and delicious. You could say that the fruit took the role of masochist, allowing the spiced beef-and-pork blend to pleasurably dominate.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_19152\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-19152\" style=\"width: 650px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Display-case1web.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-19152 size-full lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/Display-case1web.jpg\" alt=\"Display case1web\" width=\"650\" height=\"368\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 650px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 650\/368;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-19152\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Various sausages are displayed in a deli case at S&amp;M (Photo by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I chose the corned beef sausage slathered with a topping that combines brown sugar, bacon and sauerkraut. My only regret is that I didn\u2019t request a smear of mustard underneath to compliment the sweetness. But the link was tender, avoiding the ropey texture of corned beef due to its fine grind. It pretty much tasted like Polish kielbasa with a hint of pickling spices.<\/p>\n<p>Other sausage options include veal bratwurst, Wagyu beef, Mexican chorizo and whiskey-fennel. Or from the \u201cbig bites\u201d list, entrees such as venison lasagna, jerk ribs and butter-infused Cornish game hens also give hardcore meat eaters something to shout about.<\/p>\n<p>S&amp;M\u2019s interior is bright and welcoming. Visitors are greeted by a sausage-stocked deli case, various market provisions, a full cocktail bar and vivid \u201cNic Cage art,\u201d incorporating quirky art plates that include an image of David Bowie\u2019s Aladdin Sane.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/pig.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-19287 alignright lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/sduptownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/11\/pig-300x209.jpg\" alt=\"SDUN 12-owOH.nPdf.pdf\" width=\"300\" height=\"209\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/209;\" \/><\/a>An elevated main dining room in the back reveals an open kitchen and classroom-style communal tables with built-in tip boxes.<\/p>\n<p>The service concept is both unusual and convenient. Patrons place their orders at the front counter before they\u2019re given a set of flip cards on a metal stem. The \u201cservice\u201d card signals that you want to order more food; the \u201cscram\u201d card cues the staff to stay away while the \u201ccheck\u201d card shows you\u2019re ready to pay for this ambitious culinary adventure that has rightfully become the talk of the town.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014Contact Frank Sabatini Jr. at <a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\">fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/a>.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Frank Sabatini Jr. I usually hold up a couple of months on new restaurants wading through their dress rehearsals before going in with a notebook. But in the case of S&amp;M Sausage and Meat, which restaurateur Scott Slater opened on Nov. 5, my inner carnivore couldn\u2019t wait another day.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":816,"featured_media":248001,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11555","_seopress_titles_title":"A twist of kink\u00a0","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11547,11551,11555],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-248000","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","category-news","category-uptown-news"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248000","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/816"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=248000"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/248000\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/248001"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=248000"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=248000"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=248000"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}