326 Broadway (in the US Grant Hotel)<\/em><\/p>\n 619-744-2077<\/em><\/p>\n Prices: Breakfast, $8 to $18; lunch, $8 to $24; dinner, $12 to $45<\/em><\/p>\n Mosey through the spotless, chandeliered lobby of the US Grant Hotel and you\u2019ll see a gold plaque just outside the stately threshold of the Grant Grill that reads: \u201cMen only until 3 p.m.\u201d The sign is one of the last remaining vestiges of a bygone era that kept male chauvinism alive at the restaurant for nearly two decades, when women weren\u2019t allowed inside during lunch service. If they came for dinner, a \u201cgentleman escort\u201d was required.<\/p>\n The policy was challenged in 1969 by a small clique of women that clamped down their heels during a defiant lunch of mock turtle soup, reportedly provoking shockwaves among the staff. The event was followed by the threat of legal action in 1971, at which point the men\u2019s-only dictate was finally relegated to the history books.<\/p>\n The century-plus-old hotel gave birth to the Grant Grill in 1951, at a time when caviar and sweetbreads were served from pushcarts to presidents, famous music composers and wealthy entrepreneurs.<\/p>\n On a back wall of the handsome, white-linen dining room are framed menus from other restaurants of the property that preceded the Grant Grill, revealing that a hot roast beef sandwich cost 40 cents and a multi-course \u201cdeluxe dinner\u201d was only $1.25. The listings provide a fascinating peek into American foodie culture from more than 60 years ago.<\/p>\n Today, the Grant Grill remains one of the few landmark dining rooms left in San Diego, flaunting elegant draperies, mahogany paneling and weighty silverware.<\/p>\n Both the restaurant and hotel have received a showering of renovations over the years — $52 million\u2019s worth in 2006. While there is no dress code, the refined atmosphere tempts you into wearing your better threads.<\/p>\n Visiting for lunch amid a well-suited, mixed-gender clientele, we tested the grill\u2019s famous mock turtle soup. Chef de Cuisine Chris Kurth uses cow\u2019s tongue and braised short ribs to mimic the now-outlawed turtle meat used in the recipe decades ago.<\/p>\n With a sturdy tomato base, the soup resembled good minestrone accented by a jigger of sherry poured into it tableside. My companion\u2019s extra-thick carrot soup was also stellar, a naturally sweet puree that clung lovingly to his spoon.<\/p>\n Our middle courses were fitting of the power lunches that still occur here. A slab of house-made duck pate came wrapped in bacon that was so delectably smoky; it infused the pressed meat to the center core. Kurth pairs the pate with an ideal daub of cherry-mustard compote and super-fine pistachio powder that would disappear from your plate with a gentle sneeze.<\/p>\n Sticking to the chef\u2019s new, seasonal menu items, we proceeded with creamy polenta topped with chorizo ragu, grilled onions and two sunny-side eggs. Folded into the scheme was precious burrata (young mozzarella cheese), which unfortunately became overpowered by the kicky chorizo. We felt that a stronger and nuttier curd like Gruyere would have fit better into the chorus of flavors.<\/p>\n![\"Restaurant](\"https:\/\/sandiegodowntownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/08\/Sherry-poured-into-mock-turtle-soup-web-225x300.jpg\" "\\"Sherry")
<\/a>![\"Restaurant](\"https:\/\/sandiegodowntownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/08\/Pate-plate-web-300x225.jpg\" "\\"Pate")
<\/a>![\"Restaurant](\"https:\/\/sandiegodowntownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/08\/Polenta-with-eggs-and-chorizo-web-300x224.jpg\" "\\"Polenta")
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![\"Restaurant](\"https:\/\/sandiegodowntownnews.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/08\/Three-bahn-mi-sandwiches-web1-300x224.jpg\" "\\"Three")
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