{"id":230367,"date":"2018-06-08T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2018-06-08T07:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/quarter-pounders-from-a-little-burger-chain\/"},"modified":"2018-06-08T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2018-06-08T07:00:00","slug":"quarter-pounders-from-a-little-burger-chain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/quarter-pounders-from-a-little-burger-chain\/","title":{"rendered":"Quarter pounders from a little burger chain"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>By\u00a0Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review<\/p>\n<p>In an age when you can out-bro your fellow bros by broadcasting your love for certain burgers, along comes a chainlet founded in Portland, Oregon that has yet to register on the radar of cool 30-somethings. Teens and fresh-faced college students, however, appear captivated.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m betting that the new Little Big Burger in Mission Valley won\u2019t put a competitive dent in places like The Friendly in North Park or The Balboa Bar &amp; Grill in Bankers Hill, where their burgers are trending wildly among savvier audiences. Ditto for dozens of other kitchens throughout Uptown and beyond (Burger Lounge, Cali \u201cO\u201d Burgers, Rocky\u2019s Crown Pub, etc.), which probably aren\u2019t flinching a spatula over this In-N-Out Burger wannabe.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7401\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7401\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Little-Big-Burger-exterior.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7401 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Little-Big-Burger-exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Quarter pounders from a little burger chain\" width=\"600\" height=\"514\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/514;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7401\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Little Big Burger in Mission Valley\u2019s Park Valley Center plaza <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The menu at Little Big Burger lists four food items in grade-school font: hamburger, cheeseburger, veggie burger and truffle fries. I consumed all of them over a couple of visits. They\u2019re followed by two other entries: fountain soda and root beer float, neither of which I bothered ordering. (Give me cold beer or nothing with my burger.)<\/p>\n<p>A sterile red-and-white scheme prevails, save for the bold geometric graphics on a large wall and the designer-gray color of another wall displaying merchandise.<\/p>\n<p>Run by a franchisee through Chanticleer Holdings Inc. \u2014 the same company that owns Hooters \u2014 the mom-and-pop factor is blatantly absent. This is quite similar to all of the other burger chains operating within a two-mile radius, including The Habit, In-N-Out, Shake Shack and Fuddruckers. In comparison, Little Big Burger is younger, cuter and smaller, with only about 17 locations in several states since launching in 2010. More are in the pipeline locally and nationally.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_7402\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-7402\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Little-Big-Burger-cheeseburger.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7402 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Little-Big-Burger-cheeseburger.jpg\" alt=\"Quarter pounders from a little burger chain\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-7402\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A beef burger with cheddar, mayo, pickles and raw onions <em>(Foto por Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Strangely, since opening its two locations in the area months ago \u2014 both here and in El Cajon \u2014 neither offers a working phone number. So for now, pick-up orders can be placed via the website.<\/p>\n<p>I love burgers just as much as any ravenous kid or foodie hipster. These are made with black Angus beef by Jensen Meat Company in Otay Mesa, which uses a 75\/25 lean-fat ratio. (Only the San Diego locations source from Jensen.)<\/p>\n<p>In addition, some of the cheese options are rather chic for a fast-food concept; chevre and bleu reside among the usual lineup of cheddar, pepper jack and Swiss.<\/p>\n<p>So why my lack of affection for these quarter-pound pucks?<\/p>\n<p>When I asked one of the Gen Z grill cooks if the meat is seasoned, he answered, \u201cOnly with a little salt and pepper.\u201d As it turned out, that was all I tasted. The flavor of the beef was overtaken.<\/p>\n<p>Also, I\u2019m not a fan of patties verging toward the shape of meatballs. These are small in diameter and chubby in stature. What you get are concentrated mouthfuls of meat in fewer bites compared to standard burgers \u2014 not necessarily a bad thing among some aficionados I know.<\/p>\n<p>As the burgers sizzle on the griddle, they\u2019re squirted periodically with water. The cook said the H2O helps lock in the moisture. He was right. It made for a reasonably juicy outcome.<\/p>\n<p>What I did enjoy very much were the thick-sliced pickles on the burgers and the moist, springy brioche buns. As for the Camden\u2019s catsup and \u201cfry sauce\u201d you\u2019ll find in squeeze bottles throughout the smallish dining area, they were forgettable.<\/p>\n<p>The catsup tasted flat. And the sauce \u2014 an equal mix of the catsup and Hellman\u2019s mayo \u2014 struck me as unimaginative, like something that might have tasted edgy when I was 10 years old experimenting with condiments.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Untitled-1-copy-1.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7403 alignright lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/missiontimescourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/Untitled-1-copy-1.jpg\" alt=\"Quarter pounders from a little burger chain\" width=\"300\" height=\"267\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/267;\" \/><\/a>A couple days later I ordered the veggie burger and truffle French fries. I had high hopes for the mushroom-based patty \u201cmade by some woman in San Diego,\u201d according to an enthusiastic employee. Rice, peas and carrots are apparently in the mix as well. But not even the tiny flecks of red chili peppers hiding in the pepper jack cheese I chose could pep up the nicely textured patty. Extra onions might have helped.<\/p>\n<p>I\u2019m officially done with truffle fries until places that serve them prove to me that the oil drizzled over the spuds is infused with actual truffles. Based on my research, the flavoring is an altered form of formaldehyde shunned by respected chefs. It\u2019s a hyped product that will hopefully disappear one day from every commercial kitchen.<\/p>\n<p>Little Big Burger will surely be well-served by its location in the Park Village Center, which offers a trolley station and ample parking for motorists willing to cheat on their favorite burger joints. My guess is that in their search for something sexier, few will say they found it here.<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014 Frank Sabatini Jr. is the author of \u201cSecret San Diego\u201d (ECW Press), and began his local writing career more than two decades ago as a staffer for the former San Diego Tribune. Reach him at <a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By\u00a0Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review In an age when you can out-bro your fellow bros by broadcasting your love for certain burgers, along comes a chainlet founded in Portland, Oregon that has yet to register on the radar of cool 30-somethings. Teens and fresh-faced college students, however, appear captivated.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":726,"featured_media":230368,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11558","_seopress_titles_title":"Quarter pounders from a little burger chain","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11547,11558],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-230367","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","category-mission-times-courier"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/230367","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/726"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=230367"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/230367\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/230368"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=230367"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=230367"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=230367"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}