{"id":226796,"date":"2019-12-20T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-12-20T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sdnews.com\/commotion-free-brunch\/"},"modified":"2019-12-20T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2019-12-20T08:00:00","slug":"commotion-free-brunch","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/commotion-free-brunch\/","title":{"rendered":"Commotion-free brunch"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Por Frank Sabatini Jr.<\/p>\n<p>When learning that brunch at Bo-beau kitchen + garden is held within a narrow window of time \u2014 between 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and only on Sundays \u2014 I expected a torturing, stomach-growling wait. Visiting as a twosome at noon, we were almost tempted to grab a light nosh beforehand.<\/p>\n<p>Fortunately, we didn\u2019t.<\/p>\n<p>Within seconds, a hostess ushered us to a roomy booth near several open tables. Very soon after, the high-octane cocktails we ordered landed under noses and our food orders were underway.<\/p>\n<p>The atmosphere was idyllically peaceful, unlike so many brunch and breakfast spots where I\u2019ve practically begged for a spoonful of sustenance while waiting in a circus-like line.<\/p>\n<p>Bo-beau\u2019s fast track into brunch is due partly to its impressive size. There\u2019s ample indoor seating on two floors amid rustic accents, plus a commodious garden patio that\u2019s probably the biggest outdoor dining space in all of La Mesa. Compared to the other Bo-beau kitchens in San Diego (Ocean Beach and Hillcrest), this wins the prize for most square footage.<\/p>\n<p>Operating partner Michelle Kveen attributes La Mesa\u2019s family-oriented demographic as another reason why brunch in the Village is so mellow, saying that parents want to enjoy domestic time with their kids on Sundays. She\u2019s probably right, since nary a rugrat was in sight on the day of our visit, although the spacious patio is a welcome amenity for when they do show up.<\/p>\n<p>Kveen is partners with the Cohn Restaurant Group, which fully owns the other locations of Bo-beau, not to mention a couple dozen other restaurants throughout San Diego County. Each Bo-beau menu is a little different with the exceptions of French onion soup, the restaurant\u2019s famous roasted Brussels sprouts, the \u201cburger royale\u201d with pork belly and Gouda cheese, and the dinnertime offering of beef bourguignon.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_11182\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-11182\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/lamesacourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Bo-beau-La-Mesa-pork-belly-flat-bread.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11182 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/lamesacourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Bo-beau-La-Mesa-pork-belly-flat-bread.jpg\" alt=\"Commotion-free brunch\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 300px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 300\/400;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-11182\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork belly flat bread<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We started with the onion soup and loved every drop, thanks to a properly salted broth spiked with sherry. The crock was capped by a requisite layer of hearty croutons covered in toasted Gruyere cheese. Color me predictable whenever I see this pedestrian item on a menu. But when structured this exquisitely, I can bathe in it.<\/p>\n<p>We might have passed up the deviled eggs in lieu of another starter such as dates wrapped in bacon, or the pancetta-strewn Brussels sprouts, which I\u2019ve savored at the other locations. Yet it was the notion of roasted jalapenos and crispy prosciutto accenting the eggs that sold us.<\/p>\n<p>The piped yolk mixture was smooth and creamy. The jalapeno element, which we couldn\u2019t visually detect, added a safe kick while crumbles of crispy prosciutto sprinkled on top contributed suitable bursts of saltiness.<\/p>\n<p>My companion is a stickler for biscuits and gravy. Me not so much. Here, the biscuits are house-made and turned up buttery and flaky. Although we both agreed the sausage gravy could have withstood more sausage as well as a generous dose of black pepper.<\/p>\n<p>It didn\u2019t take long for the cocktails to limber our limbs. The refreshing, citrusy \u201cLa Mesa lemonade\u201d was gulp-worthy despite strong measures of Absolut Citron and limoncello. And the \u201cRon Burgundy\u201d carried the expected impact of scotch mixed with sauvignon blanc. Ginger beer rounded out the flavor.<\/p>\n<p>We proceeded to a couple more dishes, such as a foot-plus-long flatbread carpeted with applewood-smoked bacon, tender pieces of pork belly, white cheddar, and onion jam. The ingredients jived well to a focaccia-like crust of medium girth.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_11181\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-11181\" style=\"width: 600px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/lamesacourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Bo-beau-La-Mesa-onion-soup.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11181 lazyload\" data-src=\"https:\/\/lamesacourier.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Bo-beau-La-Mesa-onion-soup.jpg\" alt=\"Commotion-free brunch\" width=\"600\" height=\"450\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" style=\"--smush-placeholder-width: 600px; --smush-placeholder-aspect-ratio: 600\/450;\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-11181\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">French onion soup (Photos by Frank Sabatini Jr.)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A grilled chicken breast sandwich with bacon, avocado, lettuce and tomato on toasted sourdough tasted mediocre until slathering on excellent peppercorn aioli served alongside. It teased out the faint flavor of the chicken\u2019s herb marinade and served as a dip for the extra-skinny pommes frites.<\/p>\n<p>Missing from the menu are pancakes and traditional omelets. They\u2019re compensated by French toast paired to cinnamon whipped cream, and an egg-white frittata with mushrooms and quinoa. Other choices extend to fried chicken and waffles, crab cake Benedict, and short rib hash.<\/p>\n<p>We afterwards got our sweet fix across the street from the dessert case inside of Surf Rider Pizza Co., which led to a leisurely stroll through the Village, sans the breakfast\/brunch hordes found in other quaint locales throughout San Diego County.<\/p>\n<p>It was exactly how I like sliding into Sundays \u2014 with a full stomach that required no hassle to get it.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Bo-beau kitchen + garden<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>8384 La Mesa Blvd.<\/p>\n<p>619-337-3445, <a href=\"http:\/\/cohnrestaurants.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">cohnrestaurants.com<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Brunch prices: Starters, $7.50 to $14; flatbreads, $17 to $19.50; jars and plates, $8.50 to $16.50<\/p>\n<p><em>\u2014 Frank Sabatini Jr. es el autor de &#039;Secret San Diego&#039; (ECW Press) y comenz\u00f3 su carrera como escritor local hace m\u00e1s de dos d\u00e9cadas como miembro del personal del ex San Diego Tribune. Puedes localizarlo en <a href=\"mailto:fsabatini@san.rr.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">fsabatini@san.rr.com<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Frank Sabatini Jr. When learning that brunch at Bo-beau kitchen + garden is held within a narrow window of time \u2014 between 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and only on Sundays \u2014 I expected a torturing, stomach-growling wait. Visiting as a twosome at noon, we were almost tempted to grab a light nosh beforehand. [&hellip;]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":816,"featured_media":226797,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"11548","_seopress_titles_title":"Commotion-free brunch","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_social_meta":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[11547,11548],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-226796","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","category-la-mesa-courier"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/226796","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/816"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=226796"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/226796\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/226797"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=226796"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=226796"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/test.sdnews.com\/es\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=226796"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}