By Marden Abadi
Special to Uptown News

Think you know your carnitas? Think again!

Carnitas were born in the state of Mexico known as Michoacan, and Morelia is the city known for carnitas in Michoacan. (Hence “Las Morelianas”—the guys from Morelia.) In the ’60s, my father took us to Ensenada and on the way we stopped at an estancia off the road, and I tasted my first carnitas. (Yes, it was as good as that first kiss!) Since then, I have never been able to duplicate that experience anywhere. Simply put, kosher-“style” is not kosher—and carnitas-“style” is not carnitas.

When you walk into Las Morelianas, you will be greeted by the owner, Fermin Guevara, and his associate, German Gascar. A kindly lady named Paz is preparing the stone ground masa to make the fresh tortillas (flour, corn) on a special skillet without oil. Ranchera music is blaring on the jukebox and the small restaurant appears very colorful and clean.

True carnitas involves roasting a 100-pound pig in a special underground oven. I like buying the carnitas freshly made by the pound and preparing my own carnitas (a 4½-pound whole shank feeds 10 people). The carnitas are accompanied by very special condiments not available in any other Mexican restaurant I know of—tomatillo salsa verde made with fresh avocado and frijoles made with real manteca. You can also enjoy traditional condiments—such as cilantro, onion, carrots, jalapenos, serranos, adobado and fresh slices of avocado—to seal the experience.

Carnitas are sold for $9.50 a pound and includes frijoles, tortillas and salsa. Those wanting to order from the extensive menu may help themselves to tacos ($2-$2.75), burritos ($4.25-$5.65), tortas ($4.50-$5.50), mariscos ($9-$14.99), mariscos caldos ($6-$11), tostadas ($2.50-$4), mariscos platillos ($11.99-$12.99), antojitos ($1.50-$6.25), combinaciones ($6-$7.50), platillos ($2.99-$18), breakfast burritos ($3.25-$4.50), specialty breakfasts ($3.50-$7.99), ensaladas ($3.75-$7.50), a kid’s menu, desserts, imported beer ($2-$3.50) and handmade margaritas and piña coladas ($3.99).

Be warned: the portions are huge and every dish is a meal by itself!

Las Morelianas
3645 University Ave.
City Heights
521-2891
Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.