Swaying in the Palms: Resort town’s retro hotels pop with vibe, value

Por Christy Scannell
Editor sénior de SDUN

Larry Stearns was already a successful owner of car washes in Palm Springs and Portland, Ore., when he noticed a rundown motel not far from his desert home. On nightly walks, he said, he would wander by and allow his entrepreneurial spirit to wonder about the inn’s potential.

Soon, Stearns found himself drawn to the Desert Riviera Hotel’s interior. But for all the history the 1951 Herbert Burns design held, the 10-room property was in more severe shape than he had originally thought.

“The shag carpet in the rooms was crunchy when you stepped on it,” he said, thinking back to his first visit.

But rather than repel him, the motel captured his imagination. About $1.6 million and three years later, the Desert Riviera is the No. 1 Palm Springs hotel on tripadvisor.com, which allows guests to rate and review hotels.

Stearns and his wife, Patty, along with his sister, Judy, and a few other employees, create a familial atmosphere around the motel’s 90-degree pool – most of the 10 rooms surround it, much like many of the area’s mid-century modern motels – offering free beverages, tour advice and restaurant suggestions. Guests can relax on comfortable, oversize lounge chairs with soft, sherbet-colored towels and enjoy the sun or the shade of numerous patio umbrellas. Pool toys – although this is strictly an adult hotel – add to the fun, as does piped-in golden oldies.

The décor nods toward the hotel’s heyday with ’50s- and ’60s-themed spaces. Poolside rooms offer a king-sized bed, a large white table (holding a complimentary snack basket) with two chairs, an upholstered side chair, a ceiling fan, a flat-screen TV with DVD player (a free movie library is in the office) and two lighted closets. Slate flooring replaces the “crunchy” carpeting.

In a side room with a pocket door is a spacious kitchenette with new cabinets, microwave and refrigerator stocked with free bottled water and sodas, plus enough utensils to prepare a simple meal. An outdoor barbecue is available to all guests, as is the full kitchen in the motel’s office.

Perhaps the only downside to the rooms is the baths. While renovated and re-tiled, most just include a small shower with water temperatures that can vary dramatically. Hopefully Larry and Patty will further upgrade these fixtures as they continue their success.

But the Stearns’ and their staff’s cheerful hospitality more than makes up for that minor glitch. From free limo service in the evenings to encouraging guests to gather at the fire pit for drinks to providing Wi-Fi, sunscreen, bikes and golf clubs, the Desert Riviera’s policy of not charging for anything beyond the room rate creates significant value when compared to resorts that tack on fees for nearly every move a guest makes. Plus the “family” feeling many guests report on tripadvisor.com creates a welcome atmosphere not found at those sterile chains.

For a more over-the-top taste of Palm Springs kitsch, travel to the north end of Palm Springs to the Rendezvous, another in the town’s set of recently renovated 10-roomers (and often No. 2 on tripadvisor.com, with nearly as many glowing reviews as the Desert Riviera). Originally built in the 1930’s but expanded in the 1950’s, the Rendezvous has quite a history with the movie set who used the motel as a retreat from Hollywood life. Veronica Lake, Gloria Swanson and Hugh O’Brien – and, most notably, Marilyn Monroe – all reportedly slept and swam at what was then the Mira Loma hotel.

Jake Cohen bought the place a few years ago and, much like the Stearns, did an extensive renovation, giving each room a theme related to its history. I stayed in “Shake, Rattle n’Roll,” not surprisingly a tribute to Elvis Presley. The spacious red, white and black hideaway includes a king-sized bed, gas fireplace (lovely in winter), seating area, flat-screen TV with DVD player, microwave, drink-stocked mini-fridge, massage table and two-person Jacuzzi tub that converts to a shower. While comfortable, this room is best for early risers – it is adjacent to a busy road that is quiet at night but bustling in the morning.

Farther from the road and just as charming is the Pretty in Pink room, allegedly Marilyn’s favorite in the 1950’s. As its name suggests, the space is completely pink, from its walls to its bedspread to a tub that is overseen by a giant Warhol print of Monroe. The room includes the same amenities as “Shake,” except for the massage table.

As with the Desert Riviera, the Rendezvous attracts guests with its value-added services. Cohen cooks up a multi-course gourmet breakfast for guests in the motel’s lobby or courtyard, then offers appetizers and signature blue martinis in the evening. Fresh-baked treats (oh, those sinful brownies!) are placed bedside every day in each room. Wi-fi, waters and sodas and robes are also provided, and Jake – who lives onsite – and his staff create a friendly ambiance, although perhaps not as personal as the Desert Riviera. Depending on what you seek in a hotel, that could be a plus or a minus.

The Desert Riviera and the Rendezvous both offer significant discounts in the hot but pool-friendly summer months. Check their websites for more information.

Distancia desde el centro de la ciudad: 137 miles
Tiempo de conducción: 2 hours, 15 minutes
Mejor momento para ir: Summer is low season but be prepared for triple-digit temperatures. Cooler months bring higher rates.
Evitar: major event weekends – the small city can get crowded quickly
Mejor para: Both of these inns cater to adults but Palm Springs has plenty of kid-friendly hotels and activities.
No tan bueno para: those seeking a dynamic nightlife, except during event weekends
Don’t miss: Aerial tramway, shopping on Palm Canyon Drive, warm evenings with cocktails and music by the pool
Propina: Many Palm Springs bars and restaurants have terrific happy hours. Check out The Falls (155 S. Palm Canyon Dr.) on Sundays for an all-night happy hour that includes discounted fresh-fruit martinis and half-price gourmet eats.