Por Frank Sabatini Jr.

In a neighborhood that often places craft beer over all other consumables, it should come as no surprise that The Safehouse in North Park makes its first impression as a serious brew bar before revealing that it’s also a restaurant.

The name alone denotes a drinking establishment, as perhaps a sanctuary from the remnant Corona culture. Well, that it is. But if the hankering strikes for some damn good ramen, you’re in trustworthy hands.

Looking in from the sidewalk through retractable garage doors, we initially saw the L-shaped bar enveloped by black walls and several flat screens used for playing free Nintendo. A jumbo chalkboard looming from behind displays the beer choices of the day, about three dozen of them with their prices and alcohol readings scribbled in. Satellite music entered into the mix, starting with Motown and then switching to classic rock.

But still no disclosure about the food until a staffer moseyed over with two menus, one printed on white paper listing three types of ramen, and the other professionally produced on a large, laminated card showing an array of izakaya-inspired “meats on sticks,” steamed buns and other small plates.

Helming the kitchen is executive chef Adrian Ishmael, a culinary grad from The Art Institute of California-San Diego, and former head chef for the now-extinct Lei Lounge. Before leaving his native Guam, he cooked at the Guam Reef Hotel. But it wasn’t until he came on board at Safehouse that he mastered the art of ramen.

“I’ve been making stocks for years, so this brings me back to the foundation of my style and experience,” he says.

As a warm-up to his big bowls of steamy goodness, we grazed through an order of spicy garlic chicken wings sprinkled with scallions and sesame seeds. They were crispy and tolerably hot. But if you’re a masochist, the “extremely spicy” wings are sauced with a fierce Asian chili paste, we were told.

Steamed buns come in a dozen varieties. They average $4 apiece. We chose the mix-and-match trio for $10.

The kurobuta pork sausage bun was the richest, containing a small, fatty link coated in panko crumbs and garnished with creamy Japanese mayo and sweet okonomiyaki sauce made traditionally with Worcestershire and ketchup. One bite was sufficient before my companion finished it with gusto.

Panko shrimp accented with eel sauce offered crispy textures from the additions of cucumbers, daikon radishes and shredded carrots, which struck a desirable contrast to the soft, puffy bun. The flavor of the shrimp, however, became a footnote in the composition.

My favorite bun was the char siu chicken accented with pickled cucumbers and scallions. It contained several chunks of thigh meat sporting reddish exteriors from Asian barbecue rub. If a few shavings of ginger or a touch of chili heat were included, we would have given it an A-rating.

Then the ramen came. My companion chose the vegetarian version loaded with corn, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoots, seaweed and scallions. I opted for the tonkotsu version made with pork broth, and with Asian mushrooms and two slabs of pork belly floating on top. Pure heaven.

Each bowl included the added luxury of a soft-boiled egg, although my broth was already enriched by collagen derived from pigs’ feet and leg bones the chef uses for making it. Like homemade chicken soup, it will nurture your innards and render you silent.

We both applauded the chef’s judicious use of salt and the medium-width wheat noodles he sources from a local purveyor. My only caveat was the rubbery fish cakes included in the tonkotsu, and served oddly on the side with the vegetarian ramen. They were pretty on the eyes, but sadly flavorless.

A “seafood medley” in dashi broth is the other option. Though with numerous add-ons available for all three, such as pressed garlic, fried shallots, five-spice chicken and more, you can essentially play ramen roulette in building your own.

Beer naturally carried us through our meal. My companion gulped down two Thorn Street Coffee Stouts while I nursed on a pint of Ritual Lemon Drop IPA featuring mild hops and vague citrus notes.

The Safehouse is onto the fact that beer and ramen are compatible bedfellows, despite the huge liquid intake involved. Yet for bloat-fearing customers, it offers tasty solids priced mostly under $7, should you prefer pairing your suds with skewered beef tongue, braised duck fries, octopus-stuffed dough balls and more. Just don’t come knocking for burgers and Bud Light.