Chances are you’ll be greeted in French as you approach the entrance at Le Petit Bistrot – and chances are that the tongue’s otherworldly lilt will beckon you all the way in. There’s a lot to the language, just as there’s a lot to the reverence for food in a country that teaches kids to cook before they’re born. If either dimension deters you from your visit to this new breakfast, lunch and dinner venue in La Plaza La Jolla mall, then I, for one, can’t be held responsible.
This experience is about as warm and as pleasant as stuff gets, with a rare and whimsical attention to detail rivaling the French joie de vivre at every turn. This is no knock-off for the uneducated American palate – a colossal French breakfast; a generous selection of crepes; 18 choices of salad, soup and quiche; and beef and fish to die for rule the day as operators Olivier and Melanie Nussbaum make every accommodation for the comfort of their guests.
Lively blue and white decor stood at attention amid my recent selection du jour – the nation’s long-heralded Croque Monsieur. Not only does the name translate to something outlandish and fun (“Mister Crunchy”); it lends a whole other dimension to the ham and cheese sammie. The secret’s in the bread – it has tons of egg and butter in it, and it flanks a stack of cheese and ham that seems to grow as you eat. The topmost layer is awash in Gruyere cheese as well, as if the French can’t get enough of their own concoction.
The entry originated as a quick snack – but if this is a snack, then popcorn is a main course. And to boot, the entry is gender-inclusive. There’s also a Croque Madame, which is topped with a small fried or poached egg, said to represent a little hat.
Again, don’t underestimate what this meal might do to your appetite for dessert. I had something called the Coupe Colonel, a lime sherbet with vodka and whipped cream – it’s very light and won’t get in the way of your walk to the ocean-view patio, set aside for those willing to brave San Diego’s wild and woolly summer weather. Olivier said the Croque Monsieur comes with a salad or fries, both at no extra cost. The cool thing is that his explanation was in French. Incredibly, I understood him, and I responded accordingly – little did he know he’d just given me an advance language lesson, in the manner of a man intensely proud of his culture and the delicious fare that so often defines it.
But the best barometer of a restaurant’s acceptance is the public mind. That’s why it’s worth mentioning that Facebookers and Yelpers echo the raves from the two La Jolla gals sitting next to me, both of whom said they’d been to the eatery three times – in the same week. Not bad for a place that’s been open only since mid-May.
Le Petit Bistrot has many such months ahead. The Nussbaums will see to that amid their commitment to their patrons and the fare they relish. Serious French cuisine means something the world over – now, the Village has another venue dedicated to answering why. WHAT: Le Petit Bistrot
WHERE: 7863 Girard Ave., third floor
HOURS: Mondays-Thursdays 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Fridays 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturdays 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sundays 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
CONTACT: (858) 877-9462, lepetitbistrotlajolla.com
