The Merrow
1271 University Ave. (Hillcrest)
619-299-7372
Happy Hour: 5 to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday

By Dr. Ink | Come on get happy!

Framed reprints of antiquated paintings displaying buxom mermaids are your first clues that The Ruby Room has turned into The Merrow. But little else has changed, with the exception of some nautical décor, remodeled restrooms clad in subway tiles and an upgraded sound system used for evening band performances.

All was quiet when a few of us dropped in for happy hour, which begins and ends a short time before larger gaggles start filtering into this down-to-earth alley bar, now renamed after Gaelic maidens that are fish from the waist down. As some of the paintings depict, these mermaids aren’t strangers to sexual trysts with humans.

During the bargain period, a flight of four beers costs $5. Even better is that you get to choose what comprises your flight from more than a dozen labels on tap.

There’s Golden Monkey if you’re going for bang, considering that this Belgian-style Tripel packs a 9.5 percent alcohol volume. I worked up to it in the lineup with a few gentler brews, each of them dispensed in two-ounce pours.

Saint Archer Pale Ale proved a perfect starter with its glowing, hoppy body and summer-like crispness. Much to my satisfaction, an unfiltered orange-wheat beer by Hanger 24 was available. It too was buoyant, but with the added bonus of creamy citrus notes on the finish. Next up was Rogue Hazelnut, one of the few brown beers I allow into my gullet since the others typically fill the stomach before hitting the brain. Its alcohol volume is 6.2 percent, which became the last jumping-off point before swigging down the big, bad monkey.

The hops fiend in our trio shelled out a five spot for a full glass of Hopnotch IPA, discounted by $1, as with all other drafts during happy hour. Despite being known as a bold, bitter ale, he drank it with gusto before I could steal a sip.

Overall, the beer selection rises above that of most dive joints, yet it falls a few notches below the dizzying choices seen in serious craft-beer bars that have taken Uptown by storm. Despite the re-branding that’s occurred here, The Merrow remains largely a homey hangout for those accustomed to basic well drinks, which happen to sell for $3 during happy hour.

Aside from a backroom stage that kicks into gear a few nights a week, visitors will find two billiard tables, a punching bag machine, a jumbo jukebox and a photo booth to capture your most rousing moments after a few drinks. And in the absence of a kitchen are snacks from a vending machine.

CALIFICACIONES:

Bebidas: 3
Amid the usual suspects such as Stone, the draft beer selection features a few notable picks such as Saint Archer Pale Ale, Rogue Hazelnut and Hopnotch IPA.

Food: N/A

Valor: 4
Pint drafts during happy hour average $5, although if you come knocking for variety, a flight of four two-ounce beers is the same price.

Servicio: 5
The bartender was friendly and knowledgeable about the beer selection. And if you order a flight, the cash register prints the name of each beer on the receipt to help guide you through the tasting.

Duración: 4
Happy hour occurs each weekday for three hours, starting conveniently at 5 p.m., when most people end their workdays, and concluding just when they’re ready to call it a night.