Station Sushi is the latest contender in the local sushi stakes, but this one has somewhat of an edge. The chef/owner, Kevin Saito, has worked at all the leading local sushi restaurants but, most impressive, was Ota’s second chef, and every fan of this cuisine knows his reputation. For those who have not yet encountered Kevin, here or in his first restaurant of the same name in Solana Beach (now run by his mother), they would be astounded to know that he is the poster boy for surmounting obstacles, among them a paralyzed left hand. Despite the problems, his knife skills are impeccable and the food that comes over the counter and out of the kitchen is incredible, to say the least.
The first thing one notices as one enters Station Sushi is not only the glistening array of sushi at the bar but the blonde behind it. What, a female sushi chef? Indeed, this is the new era of sushi chefdom, for Kevin selects and trains all his chefs by their skills, not their gender.
The next thing that catches customers’ eyes are the large flat-screen TVs mounted on the walls, each tuned to sports programs, for it seems that sports and sushi are the new go-together trend in the young market, and that’s a good thing.
But the next and most important thing one spots is the food being delivered to seated customers ” beautifully plated and, in the case of cooked food, aromatic as well.
Now it was time to do some tasting, and as usual, my eyes were bigger than my stomach, so my companion and I started with an order of edamame and white miso soup, the latter laced with the usual suspects: chives, seaweed and tofu. My companion asserted that it was the best miso she had ever tasted, and she has had more of it than I. Next was an order of kaisou seaweed salad, one of my favorites, done with yuzu and sesame oil “” very good, a tad on the salty side for my tastes but perfect for the average diner.
So far, so good, but my eye was caught by the almond shrimp, listed on the happy hour menu at $4 for two pieces (regularly $9) ” and this one was a revelation. A spicy fish stuffing was inside, a tempura batter was outside, with almonds atop, the whole thing deep-fried briefly and delivered, aromatic and crunchy to be served with a sweet Japanese sauce. Even if I tried nothing else, this would be one of my favorite dishes here.
My companion is a chicken lover, so she chose the curry bowl and the portion that arrived looked like enough for three people. I sampled a spoonful and it was a winner. However, I awaited the miso black cod. A dish not always available in other restaurants, this one is served with steamed spinach seasoned with soy, sake and garlic. It proved the truth of what Kevin had told me earlier, that his kitchen skills include a specialty in steamed dishes, and this was one of his finest. As he describes it, half of his recipes are traditional and half his own derivation.
In addition to all the dishes I tried, there is an array of nigiri sushi, from albacore to tomago, sashimi and special rolls with enticing names like ex-tasy, 161 MPH and monkey stick plus fluffy mama, et cetera. Happy hour runs from 5 to 7 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, and you can dine well for very little, unless you are tempted, as I was, by all the extra goodies.
If you are in the mood for a sweet treat (not dessert), try the Korean raspberry dessert wine. I did, and it was another winner. Now that the traffic has calmed, drive yourself down to 5752 La Jolla Blvd. in Bird Rock, or call (858) 551-0410. You will be glad you did.