From as far back as I can remember, both the American and south-of-the-border fare served at Jimmy Carter’s Mexican Cafe has delivered homespun comfort, as well as titillating spiciness when diving into the table salsas or entrees such as chili “colorado,” and pork (or chicken) bathed in Tlaquepaque sauce.

Tlaquepaque sauce heralds from the namesake city in Mexico. It relies on roasted jalapeno and arbol chilies for achieving its two-punch kick. Regardless what you order, you can request it on the side for adding a little complexity to your tacos, burgers or omelets.

It’s pure coincidence that the owner’s name jives to former President Jimmy Carter’s—and that he seemingly shares his progressive politics and humanitarian soul.

Take for instance the mustached bracero statue overlooking the main dining room. He’s holding a sign that reads: “The 2nd Amendment was written when Arms were Muskets.” In this day in age, food and common-sense politics can indeed mix. And Carter, the personable restaurateur, makes no apologies for doing so.

Carter launched the eatery in 1991 as a place for all-American grub—and with considerate options for vegetarians. Though it wasn’t until the early 2000s that he began introducing praiseworthy takes on Mexican food while implementing bold colors and lots of Mexican décor into the scheme. The revised concept took off from the get-go.

I’ve gleefully consumed numerous dishes here, gravitating often to the well-seasoned, slightly sweet carnitas. The slow-cooked pork gives rise to egg scrambles, tacos, burritos, and quesadillas. I find it most blissful in its simple plate form, when served alongside limes, beans (pinto or black), rice, and warm tortillas.

In a recent visit, my companion opted for a pair of enchiladas filled with the carnitas. The meat was exceptionally juicy but without water-logging their pillowy corn tortilla casings.

I tried for the first time Jimmy Carter’s jalapeno poppers stuffed generously with melty, stringy Oaxaca cheese—a nice departure from commonplace jack or cream cheese. Served four to an order, only one was fiercely spicy. I was delighted to have intercepted it—and so was my squeamish companion.

Other unwavering standouts from past visits include the deeply flavored chili “colorado,” a dish claimed by Mexico, Spain and Texas, depending who you ask. Its name actually has nothing to do with the state of Colorado, but is derived from an accepted meaning of the word “red” in Spanish—that being colorado. Made usually with beef, Jimmy Carter’s gives you a choice of pork or chicken while adhering to the classic draping of the urber-red adobo sauce. Prepare your palate for a stampede of flavors from pasilla and dried ancho peppers as well as herbs and garlic.

In the zillions of chili rellenos I’ve engulfed over the years, most are made with Anaheim peppers, a rather safe choice compared to the zestier poblano chilies used here. These are delicately breaded, fork-tender, and come with a choice of sauces listed in the menu’s “sauce guide.” Pair it with a cup of green-tinted albondigas soup flavored with tangy tomatillos and pork meatballs, and you’ve scored a gratifying, affordable meal.

While some of Carter’s Mexican cuisine taps into recipes from that country’s provinces, others stick to culinary Americana, such as the gringo-inspired taco salad using ground beef. It’s served in a classic oyster-shaped fried tortilla along with shredded lettuce, tomatoes, beans and cheese. Pure comfort food to those whose non-Latina moms rotated it through their weekly meal plans over the decades.

Vegetarians and vegans have it easy here, given the choice of Soyrizo and plant-based “beef crumbles” available across the menu.

As for breakfast, you’ll find reliable, foolproof choices such as huevos rancheros, red or green chilaquiles, house-made corned beef hash, plus a host of egg dishes, burritos, veggie medleys, and pancakes.

In addition to the main dining room, the restaurant offers comfy outdoor seating and a festive interior cantina with a bar that slings sturdy margaritas using fresh-pressed lemons and limes. Service is brisk and the operation is well-staffed, with Carter himself often present.

Jimmy Carter’s Mexican Cafe

3172 Fifth Ave. (Bankers Hill)

619-295-2070, jimmycatersmexicancafe.com

Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., daily