Just when you think you’ve settled on a favorite place for fried chicken and waffles from the decent number of places that serve them, along comes Ali’s Chicken and Waffles to shake things up.
The two-year-old business, which shares space with Donut Star in City Heights, is one of those hidden gems where plump chicken tenders encased in three types of flour rule the day.
The culinary ‘wow’ factor here potentially begins with a tall cup of “Mom’s iced tea,” which is a wildly delicious brew that owner Genemo Ali enjoyed while growing up in his native Ethiopia. His mother struck the perfect alchemy of flavors in this black-tea concoction by infusing it with specific measures of ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper. It’s guzzle-worthy and pairs well with everything.
Ali and his family left Ethiopia some years ago because of political unrest. After settling in San Diego, the young and ambitious Ali completed middle and high school nearby before earning a bachelor’s degree in business marketing from San Diego State University.
Before opening Ali’s Chicken & Waffles, he had taken over a Thai food stand at the farmers markets in Little Italy and Hillcrest. He still operates them under the name Coconut & Co.
His connection to chicken and waffles originates to when he first experienced the dish at Roscoe’s in Los Angeles. He says it was love at first bite and he now cooks the dish with his own unique Ethiopian and Thai influences. The dreamy house-made coconut syrup he offers with the waffles (or the chicken) is something that could net a potential fortune if he ever decided to bottle it. Though thin in consistency, once you try it you will easily forget about maple syrup.
Using chicken tenders only, the poultry is marinated for 24 hours in buttermilk. They are then dusted in corn starch, rice flour, and all-purpose flour before being deep-fried in canola oil. The tenders can be ordered plain, mild, medium or “Thai spicy,” which I chose in a combo that included skinny fries and a hot, fresh waffle.
The spice level on the chicken was just right—hot without being obnoxious. And the level of natural juices in the meat was superior compared to fried tenders I’ve consumed elsewhere. These were fork-tender and non-greasy.
Combo meals come with a choice of sauce. Additional ones are only 50 cents each. The herbed mayo, which also appears on Ali’s spicy chicken sandwich, was my favorite. The mayo contains an imported herb from Ethiopia called urgo. It registered on my palate as a hybrid between basil and mint, yet still maintained its own ethereal essence.
Most everything is made to order, even the macaroni and cheese. If you’ve been let down repeatedly by the lack of cheese flavor in mac-and-cheese side orders, this made-on-the-spot recipe comes to the rescue with a robust sauce of cream, cheddar and Parmesan.
Since the food isn’t pre-cooked, it’s commonplace to wait about 10 to 15 minutes for your order. But nobody’s complaining— per the raves I keep hearing from repeat customers who got hooked on Ali’s from their first visit.
Other menu options include lentil or chicken samosas, which are petite and delicate. You’ll also find shrimp and grits (between 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.); cheesy grits; a chick-and-waffle sandwich; loaded fries; and burritos housing fried chicken or shrimp, chipotle mayo, and corn pico.
Ali’s is open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. It offers takeout and dine-in, although seating is limited to three indoor tables that each accommodate four people—and in direct eye shot of Donut Star’s display cases.
- Ali’s Chicken & Waffles
- 4350 University Ave.
- 619-635-1269; alischickenandwaffles.com
- Prices: Breakfast, $7 to $15. Combos, sandwiches and specials, $7 to $16.75. Sides, $4.25 to $5.25
