You could say Dennis Borlek has been preparing to own and run Fathom Bistro, Bait and Tackle on Shelter Island his whole life. A San Diego native with scuba diving in his blood, Borlek is also a music aficionado and bona fide beer and food geek. This combination makes for an uncommonly innovative, tasty, yet low-key dining and drinking experience.  Borlek’s dad, Dennis E. Borlek, a dive shop owner, and Point Loma itself were the inspirations for the bistro’s décor – a combination of vintage diving gear, classic underwater movie memorabilia, and science fiction movies (think “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea”). There’s even a black and white photo of Borlek’s dad in his diving gear gracing the entrance of the postage stamp-sized dining room. Thanks to its location on the Shelter Island fishing pier, Fathom has unparalleled views of San Diego Bay (Borlek says at sunset it is “magical”). He credits his five years at Off the Record in the College Area for the eclectic music mix playing that ranges from Rickie Lee Jones (Remember “Chuck E’s In Love”) and the Beach Boys to Lyle Lovett and the Plimsouls. Fathom always has a selection of about 10 house made sausages and dogs (yes, Borlek makes all the sausage himself!), like the “Chicken Pot Pie” complete with vegetables ground right into the sausage and topped with turkey gravy. He also serves bierwurst, burgers, sandwiches and homemade kimchi. That’s not all the good stuff, though. Fathom rotates the bistro’s 15 beer taps with local, national and international craft beers. Based on his experience working in the beer industry at places like Hamilton’s Tavern in South Park, Small Bar in North Park and Liar’s Club (was in Mission Beach), he chooses the selection based on personal relationships he has cultivated with brewery owners, like his former roommate and Russian River Brewing Co.’s (creator of Pliny the Elder) Vinnie Cilurzo. But what about the bait and tackle side? Borlek runs a small shop attached to the bistro for those anglers who may have forgotten a hook or need a cup of hot coffee in the morning before the marine layer has burned off.  How did owner Borlek, come up with this eclectic combination of food, drink and atmosphere, and how did he know it would work? Borlek says, “If you build a place that you’d like to hang out at, like-minded people will come.”  Fathom Bistro, Bait and Tackle Where: Shelter Island fishing pier.
Hours: 3 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays to Thursdays, 3 to 10 p.m. Fridays, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays.
Info: www.fathombistro.com