Por Dr. Ink

Among the dozen draft beers offered during happy hour at The Range is a mysteriously hoppy lager called Batch 19. Its makers, Coors Brewing Company in Golden, CO, refer to it as “pre-prohibition” style, using a recipe that was in place before beer was banned in 1919. Intrigued by the notion of imbibing on suds that my great-grandfather likely consumed, I seized the opportunity to throw down a glass at the discounted price of $5.

During “crafty hour,” as it’s called here, the drafts are $2 off. They extend also to Newcastle Brown Ale, Stone IPA, Ballast Point Sculpin and several others that evade the watery mass-produced ilk.

Batch 19 is available only in a handful of cities throughout the country. It tastes rebelliously bold, yet with a nurturing biscuit-like sweetness and a manageable alcohol content of 5.5 percent. The logbooks show that it’s brewed with a rare combination of hops that include Hersbrucker and Strisslespalt, used commonly (and nobly) in European Pilsner and wheat beers. Beer connoisseurs rave over their lemony aromas and floral undertones while the average Joe Schmo chalks their effect as giving beer a far richer flavor compared to that of Corona or Bud Lite.

While others in my foursome gulped on buoyant Stella Artois and feisty Green Flash Hop Head Red, we shared a couple of crispy appetizers, also discounted at $2 apiece. Flattened chicken tenders coated in crushed potato chips was a fitting come-on to our brews, despite that the batter didn’t taste exactly like Ruffles or Lay’s, but rather a semi-salty version of panko.

An order of sweet potato fries, called “sunsticks,” became addicting and kept the beer flowing past our lips. They’re served with a trio of lively dips: Honey-mustard, woodsy-tasting barbecue sauce and buttermilk-rich Ranch. Bigger appetites will demand the nachos with Point Reyes blue cheese from a limited happy-hour list that I wish included The Range’s famous grass-fed burgers.

A spate of warm weather had lured us to the smoking-friendly front patio, where people-watching is at its best. Inside, an enthusiastic staff was preparing for monthly movie night, which later drew a full house for Dirty Dancing playing on multiple flat screens. The price breaks had expired by then, but nobody seemed to care while gawking at the slick gyrations of the late Patrick Swayze.

CALIFICACIONES:

Drinks: 5/5
A dozen craft drafts cover the gamut in terms of flavor, ranging from light to smooth, medium to robust. The list also features Batch 19, a pre-prohibition style brew made with uncommon hops.

Food: 3/5
The Range’s signature “potato chip” chicken tenders were a little dry, but they serve as viable snack food when guzzling beer. Sweet potato fries, grilled veggies, caprese on crostini and nachos with blue cheese round out the discounted food offerings.

Value: 4/5
During happy hour, some of the craft beers sell for only $4 apiece.

Service: 4/5
Our drink orders were taken promptly and the food came out remarkably fast.

Duration: 4/5
Should you end up working overtime during the week, you still have until 7 p.m. to melt away your tensions over a cold beer. Weekend bar crawlers, however, pay full price.

The Range
1263 University Ave. (Hillcrest)
619-269-1222
Happy Hour: 4 to 7 p.m., Monday through Friday