A wonderful, unexpected surprise awaited when I stumbled across Burgundy Grill and Wine Bar (actually, a friend mentioned having been there a while back) a bit off the beaten track. The building is a historical landmark, designated “Geranium Cottage,” which had been a restaurant in an earlier incarnation, according to chef/owner Jean-Pierre Ghanem, but it had been closed for months before a friend of his told him about it. He was immediately entranced when he came down from L.A. to take a look at it. After some major redecorating, including turning the garage into a wine bar, he created a niche that is slowly but surely gaining a discriminating clientele. Obviously it takes more than ambience and charm to build a restaurant’s reputation, and the key to Burgundy’s success is the food, all of it organic and impeccably prepared. He is a chef after my own heart because he chooses not to put salt in the food, instead allowing the natural flavors to dominate and the customer to add his own if he desires. When seated, the first person one sees is server Chris Swain, who knows the place as well as Jean-Pierre, since he has been here from day one and moves effortlessly between the occupied tables, giving each individual attention. He brought a ramekin of flawless green olive walnut tapenade to the table, along with a delightful garlic herb butter with which to slather the crunchy baguettes in the basket while we perused the menu. Five soup and salad selections were offered: tomato, available every day, and the soup of the day; romaine or mixed green salad; fresh fruit salad; salade d’epinard (spinach, boiled egg, potato, bacon, tomato and croutons, tossed with a Dijon balsamic vinegar dressing); and an ahi salad with rosemary reduction, featuring a lemon citrus dressing. Five hors d’oeuvres were listed: herbed goat cheese, chicken brochette, shrimp cocktail, a mixed grill skewer (sounding delightful with chicken, Angus filet, shrimp and a spinach tortilla), plus an imported cheese platter. Half a dozen entrees included balsamic glazed chicken, lamb chops, wild salmon, the chef’s catch of the day and, my choice, steak bourguignon, an 8-ounce black Angus, vegetarian fed, served with entrecote sauce and either broccoli or green beans, plus a side of pommes frittes. For me it was a no-brainer. Tomato soup to start, a silky rich broth, perfectly prepared, preparing the palate for the spinach salad that followed. And then, the piece de resistance, boeuf bourguignon, tender, perfectly done and sauced to a turn, with a side of crunchy broccoli, splashed with a bit of balsamic dressing. Three desserts are offered, and the warm, dark chocolate fondant was my downfall, but it was worth every calorie. Did I mention they have a wonderful wine list? When I was there, they were doing a happy hour from 4 to 7, featuring hors d’oeuvres and wine by the glass. Burgundy has a capacity of 90, half inside and half out. There is a spacious patio at the back of the cottage as well as seating outside in front. The dining room is warm and cozy, painted in — of course — burgundy. Jean-Pierre has already booked a number of wedding rehearsals and birthday parties as well as a wedding as of a few weeks ago. Burgundy Grill and Wine Bar is located at 830 Kline St. and you can reserve by calling (858) 729-9905.