If you have not yet discovered the newest Italian restaurant in town (since July 4), make haste to taste a luscious array of dishes put forth by executive chef Christian Delle Fave (and he’s not bad looking, either) at Venice Ristorante and Wine Bar, which took over the space formerly occupied by Tutto Mare in the Golden Triangle.
It is the fourth in a chain that originated and still is located in Colorado, but calling it a chain doesn’t begin to do it justice. Chef Christian has styled this one for California tastes and using the best of California ingredients. He does admit, however, that as a chef he has borrowed a recipe or two, such as carpaccio with white truffle oil (unbidden, he added sliced black truffles for me), and risotto done with an array of seafood, including prawns, calamari, clams and mussels, touched with fresh tomatoes and flakes of 23-karat gold leaf. Both of the aforementioned a heavenly start to our meal.
Marco, the general manager, is very well-trained in the restaurant business, beginning in his hometown of San Pellegrino and running trattorias all over, including in South America and in the United States, but owner Alexander Carollo tempted him to come to San Diego for this new enterprise, and a good fit it is. Benjamin, the maitre d’, has also found his niche here.
Back to the food. With a bottle of excellent Soave, we were off to a good start. One item I can rarely resist is foie gras, and the version prepared here was one of the most incredible I have ever tasted. It was done with cherries and currants, covered in a cherry sauce and sprinkled with pine nuts for a taste that’s impossible to describe adequately.
Still in the antipasto section I was drawn by the polenta Piazza San Marco, prepared with grilled polenta adorned by pan-seared prawns, calamari, mussels and clams and accompanied by a drizzled balsamic vinegar sauce ” and that sauce was miraculous. We couldn’t worm the secret of it out of Christian, but frankly, I don’t blame him. It will keep me coming back for more.
There were a slew of salads available ” one made with spinach, pancetta, mushrooms and walnuts sounded appealing, but I can always eat salad at home so I’ll stick to the more exotic items.
Venice offers a half-dozen pizzas on the luncheon menu plus a couple of lasagnas, but the ravioli sounded appealing: one filled with butternut squash, another with eggplant, plus several others with the usual ingredients, but for now I skipped over them and perused the pasta ” fettuccine, pappardelle and spaghetti ” and the four different gnocchi selections. That was before I even turned to the entrée selections ” everything from lamb (from Colorado, naturally) to duck or chicken breast (four preparations of those) and more than a half-dozen veal dishes, ranging from a veal T-bone to scallopine to a rack, to say nothing of filet mignon, rib eye and New York steak, among the other meats. If you dined here every day, you would never have to repeat a dish ” plus they run many fish specials depending on what is available that day.
I did break one of my rules ” there was a chocolate crepe on the extensive dessert menu and I must say it was heaven on earth, and more than that, it is not an exaggeration to say it tasted like an orgasm on a plate. Unbelievable!
Dining during their happy hour, at 7 p.m. and then 9 p.m. to close, they feature a marvelous selection of wines at $5 per glass and tapas at $3 per item, among them bruschetta, calamaretti, cappellacci and farfalle al pollo.
Venice is located at 4365 Executive Drive, and you can call them at (858) 597-1188. You will love it!