Por Dr. Ink
I often declare after sipping smooth sake and biting into a clean, unctuous sushi roll that they’re “the best I ever had.” When the mood strikes for either, I’m vulnerable that way. En Saiko Sake and Sushi Bar, however, the offerings (and happy hour prices) fall into the exceptional category, even if arriving not so hungry.
“Saiko” translates to “best,” which might seem boastful when using the word to name an establishment. But when premium sake and crafty sushi lands under your chin in sleek and artful surroundings, the usage is justified.
This is Saiko’s second location, which opened less than a year ago in North Park’s central business district. Its original home on Orange Avenue in Coronado is about three years older. According to my alert waiter, the menus are slightly different and the sake collection in North Park is decidedly larger.
Three of them are available for $5 apiece during happy hour, each premium brands served cold in standard two-plus-ounce pours.
Passing up the classic Lily Honjozo and the sweet, cloudy Snow Maiden Nigori, I was sold on the lightest in the trio, the Matinee, which falls into the “junmai” category of sake because less rice is used in its production.
The crystal-clear liquid was remarkably crisp, sporting one of the softest finishes I can remember. It’s exactly the kind of sake you sip with food opposed to the sweeter, edgier types best savored before or after a meal.
Which brings me to Saiko’s bill of fare. You know you’re in luck when you see two kids around kindergarten age who are less interested in playing with their chopsticks than they are in devouring what’s on the table.
They appeared to be eating the same bargain roll I ordered, the wildly plated “Saikorama” made this particular week with yellowtail, salmon and imitation crab. Priced at $5 and cut into eight pieces, it usually sells for $12.50. I loved the light tempura edges and the big swirls of sweet, caramelized soy sauce encircling the arrangement.
My intention of trying the house-fermented kimchi using seasonal vegetables ($2) or the Sriracha chicken skins ($5) flew right out the window. The roll proved to be a fuller meal than I expected. And with sake that had seemingly lined my throat in silk, I came away with only $10 less in my wallet, not to mention a return visit penned into my schedule.
