
Once in a while on my gastronomic journeys across San Diego County, I come across a place that really makes it onto the map. To really stand out, a restaurant must have more than just good food; it should have attentive service, appealing atmosphere, consistently great food and that little something extra that makes it memorable. When you find all of these qualities together in one restaurant, you know you’ve found something special. One such delicious blend of premier qualities is The Better Half Bistro in Hillcrest. This venue intrigued me with its namesake – the perfectly sized, wonderful half-bottle of wine. With half-bottles, you get to try premium wines at more affordable prices, and you can sample several without drinking too much. Better Half serves only half-bottles–no wines by the glass, except for dessert wines–but the wine list is extensive, with plenty of selection from around the world to pair with delicious food choices. You can bring your own favorite wine, and the $5 corkage fee is the most reasonable I’ve come across. The Better Half is cozy yet quietly sophisticated and consists of two small houselike buildings separated by a courtyard and tables. The courtyard dining area is warmed with outdoor heaters, tastefully strung lights and half-bottles adorning the walls. From the outdoor seating area and from several tables inside the main dining area, you may get a view of the busy kitchen staff preparing the evening’s fare. The inside dining area in the lower floor of the main house features hardwoods, intimate lighting and a warmth that reminds one of dining at a friend’s home. Even when filled with patrons, the setting still allows for a comfortable level of conversation. The service is attentive, and the restaurant’s staff is educated about the food and wine offerings. Owner Zubin Desai has added special touches like the amuse-bouche served before dinner–during my recent visit, ours was blue cheese mousse with artichoke and tomato salad. And the miniature lemon or raspberry sorbet cones, delivered between the first and second course for cleansing the pallet, are a crowd-pleaser as well. Zubin and chef John Robert Kennedy make rounds with the customers to converse and make sure everybody’s satisfied. Kennedy chooses the freshest ingredients every day, resulting in an ever-changing, creative menu. The menu is not extensive; there are usually only about eight entrees and an equal number of starters on the menu. But with the Chef’s Specialties–they call them the Chef’s Whims–there’s plenty of diversity. If entrées like Frog Legs, Ostrich and Wild Game Meatloaf are a little too bold for your tastes, the Seafood du Jour may more likely please your pallet. And with at least 24 hours’ notice, the chef will cook just about anything requested, including vegetarian or gluten-free meals. Kennedy and sous chef Jake Hoyer take pride in their creations. Desai says he held his own version of a top chef competition and was so impressed with Kennedy he hired him as head chef. “It was his ability to make the perfect grits that impressed me the most,” said Desai. Kennedy boasts a vast array of culinary experience, including work with Thomas Keller of the French Laundry. For our visit, we started with the Tart du Jour, a flaky and savory smoked pork belly tart. We then sampled a delightfully yummy cheese plate with candied pecans, dried cranberries, watermelon rind chutney and several specially selected cheeses. For my entrée, I chose the Stuffed Montezuma quail with Tehachapi apples, mushrooms, Iranian pistachios and bosco pears served with wild mushroom risotto, perfectly cooked and full of flavor. The restaurant’s simple but elegant presentation lets the food speak for itself. The seafood du jour changes daily–my date had the andouille sausage and seafood jambalaya, which he found very tasty, full of crawfish, sausage and shrimp. Roasted salted carrots with balsamic tamaron glaze were brought out with the meal at no extra cost. The average for an entrée was around $20 or less, not bad for a French-influenced menu. Stick around for a recitation of the dessert menu, with treats like the signature bread pudding and the flourless chocolate tort. My date and I lingered over the simple but elegantly prepared pear sauterne tart with caramel glaze, one of the staff’s favorites. “A smaller, more intimate setting allows for the restaurant to change the menu with the seasons and provide the freshest ingredients,” Desai said. And indeed, with the use of fresh ingredients and interesting, unique menu items, the eatery has become a neighborhood choice since its opening in late 2007. San Diego Downtown News’ readers poll cited Better Half Bistro as 2008’s Best New Restaurant, and it has received the Wine Enthusiast’s award of distinction for 2008. It’s open for dinner Tuesdays through Sundays at 5 p.m. and for brunch Sundays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. It’s located at 127 University Ave. The phone number is (619) 543-9340. For more, visit thebetterhalfbistro.com.