Anchored two blocks away from the Ocean Beach Municipal Pier is one of the neighborhood’s oldest restaurants, where the recipes for chili rellenos, cheese enchiladas and beef tacos haven’t changed in 55 years.
Like a museum to its time, Nati’s Mexican Restaurant shows off its longevity on a memorabilia wall containing vintage photographs of staff and customers at a time when Ocean Beach was much sleepier. Interspersed within the arrangement are original menus, media accolades and a photo from the early 1970s of teen heartthrob Shaun Cassidy donning a Nati’s T-shirt.
But despite the restaurant’s loyal patronage spanning four generations, a critical piece of its past remains a mystery.
Longtime co-owner and general manager Marilyn Thomas says little is known about the restaurant’s original founder, Nati, including her surname and background. “She’s been deceased for many years, and we have no idea prior to 1960 exactly when she opened the restaurant,” says Thomas. Nati sold the business in 1960 to Vern Lontz, who had operated a gift shop on the property for several years. He, too, is deceased. “After selling to Vern, she may have moved to Arizona, but we’re not really sure,” adds Thomas.
Lontz ran the restaurant until 1973, at which point employee Dennis Kerr and a friend of his took over. When Kerr’s partner eventually left, Thomas stepped in as manager before becoming a stakeholder. “Dennis and I had originally started working at Nati’s at a young age,” Thomas says, “while each attending Point Loma High School and then going through college. We’ve been the owners ever since.”
Kerr, who became an attorney along the way, is now retired. He lives half the year in Idaho. Thomas, a registered dietitian, earned her degree in food and nutrition from San Diego State University and oversees Nati’s year-round.
In addition to upholding the primary recipes that were established long ago by Nati, the duo has adhered to the operational policies implemented originally by Lontz, who had also added a second dining room, expanded the patio and created a spacious parking lot behind the building during his tenure.
“We still bonus our employees and give them paid vacations, which is especially rare in small restaurants,” notes Thomas, adding that a handful of staff have been working at the restaurant for 45 years.
Numerous menu draws have remained firmly intact as well. Nati’s is among the few Mexican restaurants in San Diego that uses ground beef in its tacos and burritos, although the kitchen obliges customers requesting the shredded version.
The hand-battered chili rellenos are still made with fresh Anaheim peppers, as opposed to the canned varieties used lately in many other places. And to those who might scoff at the inclusion of lard in refried beans, Nati’s makes no apologies for using it as a traditional flavor booster.
Combination plates remain the biggest sellers. They feature two or three items such as tostadas, tamales, burritos and machaca as well as rice and beans. For vegetarians, the No. 7 appeases with a guacamole tostada, a lard-free black bean taco and a cheese enchilada spiked with raw onions.
Carnitas are missing from the menu “because we prefer keeping it streamlined with customer favorites,” says Thomas in referring to the restaurant’s spotlight on Angus carne asada marinated in a secret blend of dry-rub spices. The flavorful steak appears prolifically in plates, burritos, tacos and enchiladas.
Right down to the four varieties of salsas and the white sauce draping tilapia fish tacos, everything is made in-house, with the exception of tortillas, sourced daily from two different local vendors.
A variety of margaritas and boozy coffee drinks are also in the offing, along with beer and wine. Ranking as the most popular libation is the kicky and traditional Puerto Vallarta margarita, constructed with a shot and a half of Cuervo Gold tequila. The drink list extends also to “Kahlua Coladas” and “Tequila Roses.”
In one form or another, Nati’s celebrates its birthday every year, although at milestones such as this, Thomas says, “We’re doing something each month throughout the year.”
Currently, a raffle is running until the end of June that gives customers a chance at winning a Nati’s meal certificate worth $25. Upcoming drawings and specials are posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page and Twitter account.