Por Dr. Ink
When brothers Tony, Memo and Javier Fragoso transformed Local Habit on Fifth Avenue into La Vecindad, the restaurant became a colorful light-filled space where sturdy margaritas and dynamite tacos rule the day.
“We know how to make tortillas, beans and other ingredients, so it was the right decision to change the concept,” Tony said when comparing it to the previous New Orleans-style format the family maintained for a couple of years.
The re-branding four months ago ushered in the vibrant ambiance of a bar and taqueria you’d find along the beaten paths of their native Mexico City, a place that opens to the street and greets with a level of pride and hospitality seen commonly in family-run businesses.
During happy hour, house margaritas are $4 and the flavored ones using pureed fruits are $5. The latter are served in bigger glasses, although both receive generous pours of Sauza Gold tequila. If you prefer the Sauza straight up, a shot of it costs only $2.
Draft beers such as Bud Light, Corona Light and Modelo Especial are $3.50. But with a festive display of tequila staring at me from behind the bar, I chose a plain margarita, opting for a mixture of sugar and chili powder on the rim of my rocks glass. Better than salt, it’s the sweet-spicy accent every classic margarita needs.
The tacos also drop down in price. From a list that includes al pastor, pollo asado, carne asada and more, you can choose two for $6. (On taco Tuesdays, they’re $5 a pair all day.) During regular hours, they’re $3.75 apiece.
The gracious bartender recommended her two favorites: the “pescado” stuffed with beer-battered tilapia, and the spiced pork “Lalo,” named after the brothers’ father.
I was in taco heaven. The house-made corn tortillas were fresh and downy, and the tilapia took on the added flavors of lemon-jalapeno sauce amid diced mangos and shredded cabbage. It was decidedly zestier than what other places sling.
The Lalo was filled with longaniza, which is akin to chorizo but less fatty and spiced differently. Here, the family recipe calls for cinnamon, cloves, onions, garlic and guajillo chilies, which gives the meat its reddish tint. For those on a quest of finding the best taco in town, this one shouldn’t be overlooked.
La Vecindad translates to “the neighborhood,” and Tony said he’d like to eventually open an additional outlet somewhere in North County. Based on the stimulating food, drinks and environment he brought to Hillcrest, the odds of a second location taking root in another neighborhood are in his favor.
