By Frank Sabatini Jr.| Restaurant Review

The dress rehearsal’s over and Waypoint Public is running smoother in its first two months than its predecessor ever did when occupying this coveted corner-lot space for the past several years.

—

Punto de referencia público
3794 30th St. (North Park)
619-255-8778
Prices: Small plates, salads and appetizers, $3 to $15; entrees, $9 to $26

—

I wasn’t a fan of The Linkery for reasons that are best left forgotten. And much to my delight, Waypoint has effectively erased all remaining vestiges of the old guard, with the exception of an appealing retractable window system that the new owners have built upon with additional panels.

They’ve also added a playpen for kids. But unless you’re seated toward the back of the restaurant, you could potentially miss it. Remarkably, the open, airy blueprint allows parents and non-parents to co-exist rather fluently, although it should be noted that quality adult time is best scored when gathered at the central bar.

Seating is largely communal, a cozy and convivial cramming of long tables with little or no separations between them. When full, the atmosphere feels like a single, unified party. It’s wonderfully reminiscent of the German beer halls I’ve visited, where you can gawk openly at your neighbor’s blood sausage and nobody cares.

Visiting on a crowded Saturday evening, the noise level was high, but cheerfully so. It was as though all of North Park had come to revel in the meat-heavy menu paired to rivers of beer that flow in from numerous “waypoints” around the globe. Currently, there are nearly 100 choices, ranging from American and European sours to stouts, wheats, saisons and more.

“We’re working toward 300,” says co-owner Brian Jensen, who also runs Bottlecraft beer shops in North Park and Little Italy.

Helming the kitchen is chef-butcher Amanda Baumgarten, also a co-owner and famed Top Chef from Season 7 who previously worked at Herringbone. Her menu at Waypoint dabbles in adventure, per the crispy pig’s ears with apricot and chili stuffing on the starters list, as well as blood sausage served over buttered cabbage.

We started with nibbly things from the “smalls” category. A brown paper bag of “tomato soup” house chips were seemingly double seasoned with sweet and zesty spices. Fried shishito peppers (appearing on numerous menus lately) were served with cotija cheese and grilled lime, a simple but rousing preparation.

We were ambivalent over a slab of smoked ham hock terrine. The coarsely pressed meat was pleasant but it fell short on the herb

s, salt and smokiness we expected. Fig butter, whole-seed mustard and apricot puree served alongside became useful condiments.

Our salads were winners. The “little gem” teases with pickled vegetables that paired masterfully to the rich and tangy buttermilk dressing. My companion’s kale salad had us tasting walnuts even before they entered our mouths, thanks to walnut oil drizzled over the dark-green leaves. In addition to the nuts, we uncovered bits of apple and feta cheese, which quelled the bitterness of the kale.

Main courses include cassoulet, mussels with pork belly and a seductive-looking Gruyere and mozzarella grilled cheese sandwich served with smoked tomato minestrone. A patron two elbows down from us had ordered it and we almost became swayed.

We instead zeroed in on a half chicken cooked sous vide for several hours and then crisped on the grill. Poultry parts don’t get any better than this, as the initial cooking method of placing the chicken in an airtight plastic bag and then simmering it in a low-temperature water bath not only seals in the juices, but also maximizes the flavor. It’s served with butternut squash and crispy Brussels sprouts.

Choosing the “Waypoint burger” from Baumgarten’s diverse menu might seem trite, but it goes with beer, especially the sour, lemony Oud Gueze from Belgium I ordered. Plus it’s constructed with panache.

The charry eight-ounce patty is topped with pulled pork, tomatillo salsa, spicy pickled veggies and a fried egg. To our surprise, it wasn’t obnoxiously sloppy or over-stacked since the ingredients are used sparingly, which also allowed the flavors to rise equally. If you’re growing tired of gourmet burgers, don’t throw in the towel just yet until you’ve tried this one.

If you have tykes in tow, their choices are simple: Mac-n-cheese, grilled cheese, cheeseburger and fries or a “little chicken dinner.”

Having missed apple pie on Thanksgiving, the version served here was worth the wait. Though the menu refers to the recipe as “classic,” it appeared more like a Danish, and with a slice of warm cheddar tucked between the apples and super-buttery crust to boot. We also tried the “S’morelaska” filled with addictive chocolate-malt ice cream and caramel. Never a fan of marshmallows, I stuck to the innards while my companion chipped away at the stiff, white shell.

Waypoint now serves brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. The aforementioned salads and Waypoint burger are on the menu, along with fried green tomato sandwiches, oyster tacos and baked French toast with whipped lemon butter.

Based on the good eats and hardworking staff we observed, I’m betting this 30th Street landing point will stick around for a good, long while.