papalecco
3650 Fifth Ave. (Hillcrest)
619-906-5566
Happy Hour: 4 to 8 p.m., daily

Come On Get Happy! | Dr. Ink

At first glance we assumed that the lineup of meat, cheese and pasta displayed across a marble countertop was for a private party. But we quickly learned shortly after entering Pappalecco for happy hour that the food is available in unlimited portions for customers who purchase a glass of red or white wine for $10.

“This is how we do it in Italy,” Pappalecco’s co-owner Franceschino Martini said as he pointed to a veritable Tuscan picnic that also included eggplant Parmesan, red pepper hummus, curly prosciutto, mini tomato-mozzarella sandwiches and more. Arriving hungry, we could barely contain ourselves considering that a majority of bars and cafes in San Diego never bother putting out so much as a bowl of pretzels for their happy hours.

Martini and his business partner, Francesco Bucci, have been rolling out the victuals from 4 to 8 p.m. daily for the past couple months. With two other locations in Little Italy and Point Loma, the Hillcrest café is the only one in the trio that does it.

There is no mention of the buffet on Pappalecco’s menu or web site, although Martini says he’s been spreading the word to customers who drop in throughout the day for house-roasted coffee and scratch-made gelato. The café also offers a menu of egg dishes, salads and panini from morning to night.

The wine choices during happy hour are limited to a red and white from Castellani, a family-owned winery in Tuscany known for its Chianti reserves and soft Chardonnays. On this day, a faintly yellow pinot grigio and inky red Sangiovese blend were in the offing.

We tried both, pairing the generous pours with nearly every dish on the counter as a viable excuse for replenishing our plates a few times. My friend’s pinot grigio was expectedly light and faintly fruity, though with a young, mild bite that still didn’t prevent him from polishing off the glass with surprising brevity. Glass refills during happy hour are $8. And if you don’t drink wine, it can be substituted with coffee or a soft drink.

I nursed the Sangiovese, which took a little time to open before its plumy undertones became evident. Yet for only $10, I was in wine and food heaven within the comfort of a well-designed café stocked with life’s simple pleasures. It’s the true definition of “happy hour.”

CALIFICACIONES:

Bebidas: 4

Two wines are offered daily, a white and a red from Castellani in Tuscany. On this visit, the pinot grigio possessed slight acidity although it went down swimmingly. The sangiovese sported mild tannins, and was likely blended at the winery with Bordeaux grapes to soften the acidity.

Comida: 5

From more than a dozen appetizers arranged on a sidebar, the eggplant Parmesan, pesto pasta and lean prosciutto were among the items that prompted plate refills.

Valor: 5

At $10 per person, the wine pours are fairly generous and the all-you-can-eat appetizers include substantial protein fixes in the form of meats and cheeses.

Servicio: 5

The owners greet customers with charming Italian hospitality, and they eagerly inform you of the happy hour deal.

Duration: 5

Four hours daily is impressive, considering the amount of free food the café rolls out for happy hour.