When Chef Mark Pelliccia opened 25 Forty Bistro in the heart of taco-rich Old Town, he recalls people warning him that the concept would never go over. Missing from the menu was anything that even faintly resembled Mexican food. Two years later, you still won’t find a single tortilla or margarita in the house. Yet on almost any given night the little dwelling that he turned into an intimate bistro fills to capacity.

To those who recall Pelliccia’s smart Italian cooking at Solare in Liberty Station, don’t assume he’s carried those dishes over to 25 Forty. Yes, there is a “starches” section on the menu featuring some clever pasta dishes, but the journey to Italy pretty much ends there.

The chef’s newfound versatility touches down on things like braised pork belly with sweet potato salad, duck and white bean casserole, steaks and a memorable grilled bratwurst served over homemade sauerkraut. Available as an appetizer it’s the first time I’ve been fed German food made by an Italian. The cabbage, we learned, is braised in cider. And it’s awfully good.

Visiting with a friend who lives nearby and appreciates the culinary alternatives the bistro brings to the neighborhood, we also began our meal with vegetable croquettes served over “fondue.” Pelliccia purees various vegetables that include potatoes, carrots, celery, peas and spinach and then shapes them into fingers before rolling them in panko crumbs. The so-called fondue bedding over which they’re served turns out to be more of a cheddar cheese sauce. Not bad, but not sensational. It was the only dish of the evening that teetered on the ordinary.

Handmade gnocchi coated in butter and sage was expectedly perfect. Pelliccia keeps the gnocchi light, which contrasted beautifully with the heavy mouth feel from the butter. Since our visit, the website shows that pumpkin and poppy seeds have come into play for the gnocchi. Also dashing were ravioli stuffed with eggplant parmigiana. Their fillings were rather scant, but we got the gist given that the sheet pasta was thin and light. Surrounding the delicate pillows were bits of chewy, delicious bacon.

The soup of the day was tasty and unusual in that it combined tomatoes and potatoes into a ruby-red puree that was comforting and natural tasting. I can’t recall ever seeing these two organics served in such unison. Equally unique was cheese risotto kept moist by sweet soy sauce boasting the deep-rust color of beef jus. A filet of cod draped over the top and a dab of wasabi sitting at the lip of the plate qualified it as one of the first Italian- Asian fusion dishes I’ve come across – and outstanding it was.

Pelliccia’s willingness to take chances becomes evident from the get go, beginning with shots of soju, lime and cream that guests are served when the meals gets underway. The milky mixture, which turns clear after about 15 minutes, performs as a refreshing palate cleanser between courses. It’s a minor, welcoming amenity that so many restaurants don’t realize carries the power of generating repeat business.

Our entrees stole the show, both of them red-wine friendly land meats. My companion opted for the bistro filet, a thick cut of velvety beef made more luscious by truffle sauce that oozed into a mound of unadulterated mashed potatoes sitting underneath. The steak was cooked exactly as ordered: medium-rare.

Throughout several menu changes that Pelliccia has made since opening, the boneless tenderloin pork chops with Fuji apples has remained a staple. We quickly understood why. For starters you get three thick chops per order while the braised apple slices contribute their juices to those captured from the pork. What you end up with is a nurturing, rustic dish that raises pork to its highest flavor level. A bed of wilted kale rounds out the plate.

Our meal ended on yet another culinary magic act, with a house-made dessert called the raspberry meringue sphere. It’s actually an orb, about the size of baseball and with a frozen exterior. Inside lies a spurt of room-temperature raspberry puree and semi-thickened cream. Pelliccia uses half-sphere molds to form the balls and then rolls them in meringue to cover up their seams. The thing melts on the tongue and goes down like a puff of air.

If you’re looking for a new lunch spot, Pelliccia has introduced a mighty attractive deal. Visit between noon and 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and savor an all-you-can-eat meal for $8. The setup is a buffet-style spread featuring several dishes that we trust won’t be generic.