By Randy Kalp | SDUN Travel Writer

Photos by Bethany Salvon

It’s mid-September in Manarola. Grapes hang from corroded rod iron entrance ways in the tight pastel corridors of this Cinque Terre village. Farmers and shop owners are entrenched in their yearly battle against the changing Mediterranean season; both grasping to the remaining days of summer for their livelihoods. On adjoining terraces overlooking the town’s only road, two silver-haired women talk over laundry lines paying no attention to the boisterous tourist three stories below.

Rick Steves ripped the “best kept secret” badge from the Cinque Terre around the time Fonzi jumped the shark on Happy Days. At that time—the late 1970s—these five villages in Italy’s Riviera were far from the tourist circuit, but after Steves recommended the Cinque Terre, the coastal mountain villages transformed into one of Italy’s “must see” destinations.

The Cinque Terre, which means “Five Lands,” is made up of five port villages—Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiore. Aside from the seaside resort of Monterosso, the other towns are embedded into the steep ravines that rise dramatically over the turquoise sea. Now protected as a National Park, the villages are connected through a series of  hiking trails, which range from the easy paved path of Lovers’ Lane (Via dell’Amora) between Riomaggiore and Manarola to the thigh busting 700 step climb into the vineyards overlooking Monterosso. The trek between the villages can be completed in one day, but personally, I would plan on spending two days or more in the Cinque Terre exploring the intricacies of each port.

During July and August, tourists swarm into the Cinque Terre, hustled in by the regional train (it conveniently stops at each village). But by summer’s end (I‘ve also read that late spring is a good time to visit, too), especially on weekdays, the crowds are thin and the villages, including my favorite, Manarola, are perfect for lazing the day away.

With just one road to navigate in Manarola, you have only two choices when you enter the town: up or down. Taking the high road leads up past the Church of San Lorenzo (approximately a five-minute walk from the town center). A plaza in front of the 14th century church offers panoramas of the seascape below. Near the plaza, on a side corridor that snakes through vibrant multi-level homes is Trattoria dal Billy. Blending fresh regional products with pasta, seafood and meats, the restaurant offers moderately priced meals and solid service. Though, the real draw of the trattoria is its intimate patio that extends out from the steep, rigid coastal peak.

Taking the low road to the rocky coast, you’ll encounter Manarola’s market area. Cafes, souvenir shops and grocers selling regional produce line the corridor that leads to the translucent Mediterranean Sea. Unlike Monterosso and Vernazza, Manarola doesn’t have a beach; however, that doesn’t mean its not a superb place to swim or sunbath. Protected by a crescent-shaped cliff, similar to La Jolla Cove, the swimming area at Manarola is a tranquil place for swimmers of all ages.

Know Before You Go:

—The Cinque Terre Card (Basic) costs: 5€ (1 day); 8€ (2 day); 10€ (3 day); 20€ (7 day).

—All passes include of the use of the Cinque Terre shuttle busses as well as access to the main hiking path. The card also provides access to the Sciacchetra Museum in Manarola, the renovated old mill in Groppo (above Manarola), the Memory Museum in Riomaggiore and the anchovy factory in Monterosso. Additionally, the card provides free usage (upon availability) for 3 hours of mountain bikes on the high trails.

—The Cinque Terre Train Card includes unlimited train rides on the La Spezia-Levanto line, which stops regularly at each village. If you want access to all forms of transportation in the Cinque Terre, a ferry pass can be added to the National Park card for a one day use, and includes access to the train as well as unlimited ferries rides to the Cinque Terre ports, except for Cornigila.

When Randy Kalp and Bethany Salvon are not wandering the world blogging for their travel website BeersandBeans.com, they call Hillcrest their home and enjoy hanging out at Filter coffee shop. Bethany can also be found on her wedding photography site, Nariko’sNest.com. Their work has appeared in the Coast News, San Diego Reader and a variety of other travel publications.