Beef Eater
The Wellington steaks its claim on ‘restaurant row’
By David Nelson
SDUN Restaurant Critic
Perhaps 30 feet – and maybe less – separate 729 W. Washington St., the address of The Wellington Steak & Martini Lounge, and 741 W. Washington, portal to the winsome world that waits behind the Red Door. Three or four waiters stretched head-to-toe along the sidewalk probably would bridge the gap.
The difference between the two restaurants is black and white. An eternal midnight darkens the mysterious and moody The Wellington, in which booths, chairs and servers alike are upholstered in black, and an equally shadowy environment enfolds patrons. Even the bean soup is black. In fact, it might seem a bit infernal were the cuisine not so Paradisial. Just yards way, white dominates the Red Door, a bright, sunny place that shares kitchen and cooks with The Wellington.
The décor sets an enchanting tone for the newest member of the restaurant row that entrepreneur Rick Libiran is building himself in Mission Hills (he also owns Café Bleu). The look suggests 2 a.m. at an exotic club decades ago, perhaps a Montmartre boite where cooler types than Hemingway and Fitzgerald rendezvoused in the 1920s. To argue with the darkness, a quintet of differently sized chandeliers hangs at various heights from the peaked ceiling, and behind the diminutive bar, glass shelves laden with the finest vodkas and other liquors gleam in front of sparkling mirrors. Although the place seems tiny, it actually accommodates a fair number of diners. It’s a hot place to chill.
The wine list circumnavigates the globe and offers pleasantries like Domaine Le Capitaine Vouvray 2007 by the glass ($11.50), but don’t settle for a wine aperitif. The Wellington subtitles itself a “Steak & Martini Lounge,” and if the list of 14 featured specialties is not unusually long in ’tini-mad San Diego, it distinguishes itself with offerings like the Negroni (Tanqueray 10 gin, Campari and sweet vermouth), and the unusual Cucumber & Goose, which adds eucalyptus syrup to a blend of Grey Goose vodka, mint, lemon juice and fresh cucumber. It’s the sort of tipple that might sooth a cold, but don’t count on it. Those who feel that ordering dessert before dinner is devilish fun may be tempted by the Banana Split, a cocktail shaken of Ketel One vodka, amaretto, crème de cacao, Cointreau, cream and – surprise! – banana liqueur. For all this, anyone who knows his way around a drink will order The Huntsman, a blend of top-grade vodka, high-proof Jamaican rum and fresh lime.
British slang rejoiced in the addition of “loo” after the Duke of Wellington’s victory at Waterloo, and Libiran obviously named his steakery for beef Wellington, an elaborate French presentation of filet mignon. Baked rather than grilled, it headlines a classy entrée list that encompasses five American steaks, a 10-ounce all-natural pork chop from Iowa ($18) and other tasty options.
An impressive “party dish” that Julia Child popularized in the 1960s, beef Wellington today seems old-fashioned and thus is rarely encountered. The Wellington’s timely rediscovery of this delight results in a showpiece of filet spread with minced cremini mushrooms and wrapped in a dome of braid-edged puff pastry that beaten egg bewitches to a golden shade as it bakes. When plated, the Wellington is finished with both a Madeira-flavored shiitake mushroom sauce, and a Lincoln Log-like corral of asparagus spears. It looks great and eats very well, justifying the $32 price. (In 1992, a beef Wellington “carved from the cart” at London’s legendary Savoy Grill failed to delight this writer, since the tenderloin had been roasted at an earlier hour, and tasted reheated when served. This didn’t matter after the maitre d’hotel seated Prince Andrew at an adjacent table.)
Among steaks served American-style, it’s a difficult call between the 10-ounce Kobe beef top sirloin ($26) and the 8-ounce filet from Meyer Ranch ($29). They’re both beauties – but they barely outshine the others, which range from 10 ounces to one pound and encompass a Meyer New York strip ($27), a succulent ribeye from Harris Ranch ($30), and a dry-aged rib-eye chop ($30). Diners have a choice of six sauces: béarnaise obviously suits the filet mignon, the “au poivre” mates the Kobe sirloin perfectly, and Argentina’s many-herbed chimichurri does well with the dry-aged steak. French chefs long ago decreed lightly herbed “maitre d’hotel” butter parfait for grilled beef, and as it melts, The Wellington’s version mingles seductively with savory meat juices. Guests also choose two sides from a list that shines with creamed corn and sweet potato fries. For doubters, the menu suggests roasted Long Island duck with a fig balsamic vinegar sauce ($27), and grilled, marinated jumbo tiger prawns with spicy, sun-dried tomato vinaigrette ($26).
Opening a steak dinner with the Kobe beef steak tartare ($10.50) seems like overkill, while the soup of the day – recently a rich, wonderful black bean with flavorings that made it taste like chili – can be just right. Otherwise, give serious thought to the wedge salad with smoked bacon and buttermilk dressing ($7.50), or the shareable spinach and artichoke dip with goat cheese ($10.50). For dessert (all sweets cost $6.50), the root beer float has an icy bite that takes one back to Midwestern barbecues that concluded after the sun dropped over the prairie’s edge. The hot-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookies that accompany the float send you home happy and full.
THE WELLINGTON STEAK & MARTINI LOUNGE
729 W. Washington St.
San Diego, CA 92103
619-295-6001
thewellingtonsd.com
