By Dr. Ink
If you were to find any of the cocktails from Polite Provisions’ menu in a downtown club or restaurant, you’d be paying almost double the price for them. Aside from trendy punch bowls and dessert cocktails, the regular cost of drinks kissed with house-made tonics, syrups and bitters doesn’t exceed $8. During happy hour, they drop down to a giveaway steal of $5.
The nationally lauded establishment, located humbly in Normal Heights, has become famous for its detailed approach to mixology while greeting customers with a nostalgic design resembling a 1920s-style pharmacy — one that would be quick to match an elixir to whatever ails you.
Five different specialty cocktails offered at the discount price change monthly. They’re lifted from old and new bar books that are favorites among the staff. September’s selection, for example, saw the resurrection of pre-Prohibition drinks from Jack’s Manual by J.A. Grohusko, published originally in 1908.
For October, they originate from Art of the Bar, a compilation of modern-lounge cocktails authored by San Francisco bar managers Jeff Hollinger and Joseph Schwartz. Down the road, it’s likely that we’ll see a quintet of cocktails appear from the upcoming Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails. It was penned by acclaimed bartender David Kaplan of New York, who is celebrating the book’s launch on Nov. 2 in this very spot.
Though if you’re in search of a fast buzz from the current list, look no further than the Dunlop made with aged rum, Oloroso Sherry and orange bitters.
“This tastes like something out of my parents’ liquor cabinet when I was a kid,” said my cohort somewhat negatively when taking his first sip. Though minutes later, he came to appreciate the drink’s oak-y plum finish and was rendered giddy by the end of it.
I ordered the gin-based French 75 and fell immediately in love with the drink’s teasing measures of cane sugar, fresh lemon juice and sparkling wine. The outcome was bright and palate cleansing. Both drinks were presented elegantly in smallish cut-glass stemware.
Other drink specials include selected craft beers, wine and well drinks ranging from $3 to $5.
As we imbibed from the marble-top bar harboring racks of bitters and syrups contained in glass casters, a friendly guy standing next to us ordered the Seven Year Storm ($8) from the regular cocktail menu and insisted we take a sip. Constructed with aged rum and served in a large chalice glass, the drink further reflected Polite Provisions’ penchant for keeping modern-day cocktail consumers on their toes, as ingredients like nutmeg, cloves and Caribbean spice came to the forefront in utterly delicious form.
Under same ownership is the adjoining Soda & Swine, from which you can order gourmet meatballs, Scotch eggs and fried pizza knots and have them delivered to your perch. When fine, crafty drinks are met with such low prices, the food could very likely become a sobering necessity.
4696 30th St. (Normal Heights)
619-677-3784
Happy hour: 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Thursday
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