According to an article in a 1959 Saturday Evening Post, a Navy man came up with an unassuming turn of phrase that will mark civilian life forevermore. The term, of course, is “happy hour,” meant to describe that coveted time for drinks and small talk (polite and otherwise) after a back-snapping day at work. The meaning probably assumes a little too much, as if the other 23 are automatically something less than spectacular.
On the other hand, maybe your taste for alcohol doesn’t depend on the clock’s conceit. In that case, a visit to Snooze, an A.M. Eatery is decidedly in order. The staff is up and at ‘em even before your mom (a feat in itself), whipping up spot-on morning fare and doodling with the happy-hour concept all the while. Now, the early birds and brunchers have a daily venue for libations (and a new anchor for community service) as their workday brethren toil helplessly in anticipation. This area has been pretty good to the Denver-based franchise, which expanded to Hillcrest in 2011 and into Del Mar two years later. The Shops at La Jolla Village edition opened Aug. 30, trotting out staples like beef tortillas and poached eggs in the manner the neighborhood has come to expect. The three-egg omelet comes with a choice of three fillings and toast or tortillas — but be warned that you won’t be able to finish it by yourself (although you’ll probably try amid all that deliciousness). The Snooze Classic will vie for your attention as well, with a choice of seven sides accompanying two cage-free eggs and hash browns or toast.
I’m a sucker for gruyere Swiss cheese, which translated to my foray into the Havana Daydreaming sammie. This guy comes with pork, ham and homemade pickles buried under an egg, all on top of a hoagie roll that doesn’t quit — but don’t be dissuaded by the girth. Lighter fare is available too, like mushroom-filled egg whites with cheese and single pancakes with a side of fruit.
You’ll have to wash it all down at some point — and that’s where the liquid refreshment comes in. Figure on the flavored mimosas and the great sparkling wine, of course, but if you don’t at least entertain the thought of a Snooze bloody Mary, I can’t be held responsible. One of these, and the memory of your lovely breakfast stays alive (something about the hot sauce). Looking for something a little harder? So be it. The Bacon and Eggs features Elijah Craig bacon-infused bourbon and egg whites along with bitters and Snooze’s own sour mix. The rest of the morning never went down so easy. Snooze figures its solid community receptions require an equal community-based response, hence its attention to nonprofits and community organizations. One percent of each sale finds its way back into the neighborhoods in some fashion — the La Jolla venue partners with EdUCate!, which provides funding for public schools in University City, and with the San Diego Coastkeeper environmental group and the Jacobs & Cushman San Diego Food Bank, the county’s largest hunger-relief organization.
So while you’re getting your eat and drink on here, you’re doing the public interest a good turn. The 9-to-5 stiffs, meanwhile, will just have to wait in line for their shot at the glory. You’ve already been to Snooze, where the toothsome food and drink make every hour a happy one.
WHAT: Snooze, an A.M. Eatery
WHERE: 8861 Villa La Jolla Drive
WHEN: 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily
HOW: 858-483-5556, snoozeeatery.com.
