Bo-beau Kitchen & Bar

By David Nelson | SDUN Food Critic

Tax and tip ultimately elevate the tab, but a bargain’s a bargain, and a plate like theirs for $19 is pretty much a steal.

The newest offering from top local restaurateurs David and Lesley Cohn, Bo-beau marches in step with other trendy eateries that have (for the moment) installed a $20 ceiling above entrée prices. The restaurant extends the rule to a “quick list” of decent bottles, both red and white, which uniformly cost $20. Pricier selections populate the formal wine card, but the short list offers a nice break to customers who’d like enjoy some vino without emptying their pockets. Bo-beau’s bartenders pour all the usual libations plus some specialty craft cocktails ($9), such as “Toulouse Lautrec’s Earthquake,” a hard-headed blend of absinthe and Cognac. I wouldn’t venture one myself, and anybody who takes the plunge is invited to report on the aftermath. Built for two and priced at $15, the “Treaty of Paris” spikes a big pour of Beefeater Gin with something called “Eucamint Sour” and what the menu insists are “smashed grapes.”  Drink one by yourself and the grapes wouldn’t be all that was smashed.

Before the bubble burst, many diners in San Diego ignored prices, which just seemed to get higher all the time. Now restaurants are so eager to fill their dining rooms with bright, smiling faces that many scramble to make the experience affordable. Quality has to figure into the equation, to be sure, and Bo-beau gives customers significant bang for the buck.  Chef Katherine Humphus, plenty experienced in professional kitchens, brings a decided flair to the preparation of her attractive bistro menu. Having started cooking at a young age, Humphus pursued formal training at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and then worked under notables such as Thomas Keller (French Laundry), and, in New York, Wylie Dufresne, at his endearingly named WD-50.

Well-known restaurateur Philippe Beltran, Paris born and a fixture in San Diego for more than 20 years, conceived the design that transformed the old Thee Bungalow into Bo-beau. The name refers both to bohemien (as in “artsy free spirit”) and beau, the French word for good lookin’. The new look—clean and simple and not cluttered with the bric-a-brac that Beltran so adores (witnessed by such Uptown eateries as Blue Boheme and Vagabond)—does have its novelties, such as the lyrics of a French love ballad painted on walls throughout the restaurant. There are fascinating décor details, notably an ancient gate brought over from Egypt that is the very portal through which patrons pass to begin their exploration of Bo-beau. Canning jars, much beloved by Beltran, contain everything from flickering candles to certain appetizers. Whether they decorate or clutter the table is a matter of opinion.

Beltran had some input on the menu too, a line-up of French classics that commence with savory starters such as a dish of assorted marinated olives and snails baked a la bourguignonne in garlic-herb butter; tartines (crusty sandwiches) topped with combos like goat cheese, kalamata olives, honey and thyme, and la gratinee (onion soup baked under a blanket of melted cheese). The informal, hearty options continue with salads, a quintet of moules-frites (mussels and french fries) pairings, pastas including a house update on rotini and meatballs, and bistro classic like boeuf bourguignon and chicken fricassee – in this case a quite wonderful version that includes tarragon-flavored dumplings, some Brussels sprouts and a mustard-enriched Champagne sauce.

Even vegetables can be en vogue in these interesting times, and Humphus avows that her best-selling menu item is an appetizer—easily shared—of crispy Brussels sprouts roasted with pancetta, Parmesan cheese and sprinklings of balsamic vinegar.

“Everybody wants them,” she said, shrugging her shoulders and adding, “Go figure.”

Naturally, the table felt obliged to order a plankful (they’re heaped on a board, an unusual but effective presentation), and they were appealing in ways never generally expected of these mini cabbages, which are shaped like leafy cannonballs and often seem rather heavier that real cannonballs. But not at Bo-beau, it is pleasant to report.

Humphus also recommended fried calamari with marinara sauce, which sounded pretty typical, but was not—the kitchen laces the crispy little squidlets with slivered cherry peppers, which go off in the mouth like cherry bombs. The house-made pâté—mild and creamy—features characteristics opposite those of the calamari, and accompanies them comfortably.

An acquaintance who stopped by the table after concluding dinner said of the cuisine, “It’s comfort food, it’s wonderful.”

The French have charming phrases to describe such fare, including, “La cuisine grandmere,” meaning grandmother’s cooking, and, “Les plats qui mijotent au coin de feu,” an evocative description of pots slowly bubbling on the edge of the hearth. Boeuf bourguignon would be a prime example of such dishes, so it is no surprise that it stars among the entrées. Rather lighter but certainly classic, the moules-frites combinations range from the classic of mussels steamed in white wine seasoned with shallots, parsley and garlic, to a very flavorful version that features red curry broth and scallions. If you like it spicy, order moules a l’harissa, enriched with garbanzo beans and chorizo and fired with red-hot North African pepper paste. After this, the delightful, baked-to-order almond cake follows quite beautifully. Served with roasted figs, whipped cream and caramel-toffee sauce, the cake arrives burning hot, so have a little more wine while waiting for it to cool. One whiff, though, and you won’t wait long.

4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., Ocean Beach

619-224-2884; www.bobeaukitchen.com

Main dishes $10.50-$19