By David Nelson | SDUN Food Critic

A daytime stroll along the Champs Elysees a few years ago was interrupted by a young, well-dressed man who sashayed over to ask, “Sir, do you have an open mind?”

If he knew an American when he saw one, I was equally quick to recognize a con man, and answered, “No, I used to be a Republican.”

At one time I also had a closed mind about green beans, but the barriers opened wide when I tasted them cooked the French way. Many Americans are afflicted by a similar prejudice, which is completely understandable if, as was my experience, their childhood encounters with this sometimes-plush vegetable were with the soggy, canned variety.  Should you include yourself in this sizeable group, make plans to dine soon at Au Revoir, the new Hillcrest bistro at the 4th and Robinson location that formerly housed La Vache.  The menu’s many highlights soar high above the humble beans, but marvelously talented chef Rene Herbeck serves them in such wondrous form that you may beg him, “Please, monsieur, I would like more.”

The haricots verts, simmered briefly, then sautéed (in butter, of course) until they reach the crunchy-tender stage the French prefer, accompany Herbeck’s elegant presentation of the Gallic restaurant combo commonly called “steak-frites.”  This is a decidedly ritzier version, however, since the steak in question is sliced beef filet rather than a modest cut, and instead of a slab of herb butter, the sauce is a wonderfully buttery béarnaise that, laced generously with fresh tarragon, tastes deliciously of licorice.  On one side rises a minor mountain of skinny, ultra-crisp French fries tossed with lavender (an unusual and beguiling touch), and on the other, what looks to be sufficient shiny, slender green beans to serve three. Chances are you’ll scarf them down without help from your tablemates.

This new restaurant is the creation of accomplished restaurateur Antonino Mastellone, who usually opens Italian restaurants (Arrivederci, Il Postino, others) and staffs them with attractive young Italians. In the case of Au Revoir, he both follows and varies his pattern by presenting Uptown a very Parisian eatery staffed with personable French servers.

Herbeck brings formidable experience and talent to the kitchen. Because of his multi-national background, he grew up with a wide-ranging appreciation of several cuisines.  (His Vietnamese mother married his Austrian father after he became a French citizen and resident by way of serving in the legendary French Foreign Legion.) In the mid-1990s, Herbeck was chef for several glorious years at Marius, the superb dining room of the Coronado hotel that opened as Le Meridien, but subsequently became a Marriott (yes, I know). Following this, Herbeck took his talents to several prominent establishments and also was a private cook for wealthy clients.

His return to the public stage at Au Revoir means that San Diegans can duck in every day of the week for lovely lunches and dinners based on the French techniques that Herbeck understands to the marrow in his bones. The prices are wonderful; since a big bowl of mussels bathed in garlicky cream and served with Herbeck’s perfect pommes frites costs just $10.50, and even at night, a big crock of bubbling, cheese-encrusted onion soup is priced at $4.50 (it’s good to the bottom of the dish, but don’t burn your tongue on the way there). At $23.50, the steak with frites and green beans tops the price chart, and the quality makes it a bargain.

Besides staff and menu, proprietor Mastellone chose a simple French décor that includes silhouettes of ultra-chic Parisiennes (on impossible-looking high heels) painted on the rear wall, spidery chandeliers of gray metal and crystal beads and, beneath the plank ceiling, air ducts painted the blackest of noirs. On one wall are ardoises, or blackboards, which display the menu bistro-style under headings of “aujourd’hui,” which lists the day’s specials, and “en saison,” or dishes Herbeck will serve as long as their seasonal ingredients remain prime. The third heading echoes the printed menu by listing “les classiques,” the traditional French dishes that Herbeck presents as flavorful artworks.

By all means study the day’s specials, which may be something elegant like one evening’s “Sherry-Port mushroom soup with crispy leeks.” Showing Herbeck at his multi-starred best, the soup was a feast for the eyes; the color of coffee with cream, the mushroom puree was crisscrossed with crisply fried leek shreds, centered by a gilded button of puff pastry, and dotted with decorative pearls of ivory cream. The mingled notes of fortified wines beautifully enhanced the earthy mushroom flavor.

Served in a black iron cocotte (an oval casserole), the perfect boeuf bourguignon was so hot that Herbeck followed it to table to warn, “Attention, c’est chaud,” which was obvious from the violently bubbling red wine sauce. This was another exceptional plate: melting meat, superb sauce, a centerpiece of eggy pappardelle pasta crowned with a panache of fried sweet potato ribbons. It’s unlikely you would find a better presentation in Dijon.

The bourguignon, of course, was one of les classiques; for her entrée, a guest chose a handsome preparation of scallops from the seasonal menu.

“This is the first time I’ve ever thought of scallops as comfort food,” she noted, sawing a chunk off one of the four colossal specimens. Bedded on braised cabbage and spinach (both delicious) and garnished with small, saffron-scented steamed potatoes, the scallops were just lightly sauced—by Herbeck’s talented hand.

Desserts are lovely, too, and mostly traditional, such as a simple, palate-cleansing crème caramel (a good idea after the rich boeuf bourguignon), a freshly baked, individual apple tart and a croustillant, or crisp pastry in this case decorated with raspberries.