By Frank Sabatini Jr. | Restaurant Review

Chef Mike Almos’ first solo venture at circa has taken firm root in University Heights since opening in April, due in part to a few key factors.

For starters, he retained the cherished, homelike ambiance established by the former Farm House Café. Modernizing the cozy space in faux-rustic elements or splashy décor would have killed it. Secondly, he chose a succinct, catchy name that has miraculously escaped other local restaurateurs despite its designation for culinary hotspots in San Francisco, Seattle and Washington, D.C.

More importantly, Almos brings three decades of cooking experience to the table, having worked for numerous restaurants and catering companies throughout San Diego County that included Delicias, the former Vagabond and 150 Grand.

“I’ve done haute cuisine, fusion, the whole nine yards,” he said, explaining that his menu at Circa is driven expressly by San Diego’s burgeoning craft-beer scene. “The food here is more blue jeans than slacks,” he adds.

He’s right, and nobody’s complaining about his use of beer in many of the dishes. An appetizer of house-made bratwurst receives the pale ale jus it deserves. It’s presented over a bed of excellent sauerkraut and with beer-spiked mustard and house pickles parked alongside.

Another starter, Baja white shrimp, is bedded on a novel pottage of Belgian blonde ale and farmer’s cheese. We couldn’t detect the beer in this case, but a solid Mediterranean flair is achieved from the additions of tomatoes and fresh basil, leaving behind a thick, tangy sauce that we mopped up gleefully with complimentary spoon-drop biscuits.

The chorizo that’s apparently woven into creamy hominy dip also evaded us, but the bright bursts of lemon oil and cilantro in the puree didn’t. Served with warm corn tortillas, the dish is Mexico’s clever answer to hummus.

Skipping over spinach salad incorporating smoked cheddar, green beans and potatoes — and another comprising locally grown butter lettuce, farmer’s cheese and green-tomato dressing — we cut right to the chase with a couple of entrees that we trust won’t disappear from the seasonal menu anytime soon.

The “beercan chicken & dumplings” has been a top seller from day one. It packs the medicinal warmth of grandma-style chicken soup but with an herby essence you’d expect if a French chef attempted the all-American recipe.

The lightweight dumplings are made to order from flour and cornmeal. They rest in a moat of Pilsner and chicken stock fortified with leeks, fresh sage, celery, carrots, onions and leaves from Brussels sprouts. Chunks of slow-cooked chicken (white and dark meat) provide generous measures of tender protein. All told, the dish exceeds its Midwest familiarity with nurturing textures and earthier flavors.

Red ale gravy and molasses ketchup added luster to “old school meatloaf” made with ground beef and pork. The dish featured two thick slabs of the loaf, accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes and wilted greens, a riveting cut above your everyday diner variety.

Almos draws from the bar’s four beer taps when constructing most of his meals, which also includes lamb pot roast with fig glaze and hangar steak with succotash and sweet potato mash, both dressed in ale gravies. There’s also achiote-marinated pork shoulder and a half-pound burger crowned with smoked cheddar, along with daily vegetarian and fresh-seafood specials.

The draft beer selection changes every couple of weeks. To my delight, Anvil Extra Special Bitter from Alesmith was on tap, offering a stimulating blast of imported English hops and caramel undertones. The bottle selection extends to about a dozen choices mixing locals with imports, and the wine list veers off the beaten path with tantalizing labels mostly from California and Europe.

Beer finds its way into a couple of desserts, such as a root beer float with smoked porter and the double chocolate brownie sundae with Brother Thelonius chocolate sauce. Or if you prefer keeping sugar and suds separate, the berries and cream drizzled in fig-balsamic syrup and served over pound cake with house-made pistachio ice cream tastes no less theatrical.

Circa opened with a newly installed stereo system that is rigged with a turntable. Customers are welcome to tote in their vinyl records, provided the music fits the jazzy genre that Almos keeps in stock. In other words, leave those old Iron Maiden and AC/DC albums at home.

Note: A brunch menu featuring egg skillets, brats and biscuits and other fare is available from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sundays.