By Dr. Ink

Throughout Western Europe an “abbey” defines a structure inhabited by monks or nuns. At South Park Abbey, religious intentions go missing in lieu of convivial congregations of neighborhood folk imbibing craft beers, cocktails and some of the most magnificent chicken wings in town.

But don’t be mistaken. There is a commitment to goodwill residing within these walls in the form of philanthropy, whereby three percent of all sales goes to a various charity that customers select from a chalkboard list. Those organizations include the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the Natural Resources Defense Council and the Huntington’s Disease Society of America. In other words, you can indulge while giving to the betterment of people, animals and the environment, whether you’re of the stingy ilk or not.

During happy hour, patrons receive a little charity of their own. All draft beers (about 16 in total) are $1 off while a local “draft beer of the day” sells for $1.50. And we’re talking hearty pours. In addition, well drinks cost $3 apiece; beer-and-burger combos sell for $10; and an order of hickory smoked wings with your choice of sauce drops from $9 to $7.

For those who remember this spot when it operated as South Park Grill, new owner Adam Neitzke has punched down its pretense with a half-dozen flat screens, wooden tables and a smoke-friendly patio. On Sundays, he says the Abbey turns into “football central.”

“Holy Moses!” I exclaimed to my vegan friend when taking the first bite into an order of chicken wings coated gently in garlic-Buffalo sauce. The oak-aged Rumble IPA sitting under my chin became a footnote against these meaty appendages, which undergo hickory smoking and perhaps a follow-up deep fry for achieving crispy skins. Neitzke wouldn’t give away the cooking secret as well he shouldn’t to protect their uniqueness from industry copycats. He claims to have sold about three tons of the stuff in the past year.

While mowing through the wings with utmost brevity, my cohort stayed several gulps ahead of me with a Manzanita IPA, brewed just miles away in Santee. The beer’s prominent hops and placid sweet finish served as his wash-down for the carrot strings garnishing my plate.
Neitzke says that his beer list remains a work in progress as he continues building the draft and bottle selection to reflect his favorite Belgians and IPAs. As for the wings and accommodating happy-hour prices, he’s keeping those intact to get more people in the door.

South Park Abbey
1946 Fern St. (South Park)
619-696-0096
Happy Hour: All day on Mondays; and 3 to 7 p.m., Tuesday through Friday

RATINGS:

Drinks: 4/5
The craft beer craze is alive and well inside this casual, neighborhood “abbey,” giving patrons a versatile selection that continues to grow.

Food: 5/5
The hickory-smoked wings are a must, a revelation compared to anything we’ve had before. Choose from nearly a dozen different sauces, although keep the Buffalo-garlic flavor in mind.

Value: 5/5
Various deals extend to beer-and-burger combos for $10 as well as local drafts for $1.50, which change daily. In addition, a portion of what you spend goes to various charities.

Service: 5/5
Menus are delivered promptly and chalkboards legibly spell out the beer choices.

Duration: 5/5
You have four hours to eat and drink on discount Tuesdays through Fridays, and the entire day on Mondays.