By Dr. Ink

It isn’t often that I divert from Uptown’s full tapestry of casual watering holes lighted by neon beer signs in lieu of classier digs illuminated by twinkling chandeliers. But ‘tis the season for a little swank, specifically the Wellington Steak & Martini Lounge adjoining the Red Door Restaurant in Mission Hills.

Two things you should know before going: Get there at exactly 5 p.m. to take advantage of the hour-long discounts on crafty martinis and fine eats; and bring a penlight to read the menu. We’re talking about exceptionally low lighting that plays to your advantage for either dodging people you’d rather not encounter in public or for cozying up to someone whose knees you’d love to fondle.

Though visiting with a non-romantic interest in tow, Wellington’s atmosphere proved ideal for intimate conversation as well as getting away with guzzling a succulent pineapple martini with wild abandon. The drink blends Swedish Purity Vodka made in copper pot stills with fresh, muddled basil grown locally. A splash of grapefruit juice further brightens the concoction, which like all of the other specialty cocktails, sells for $8 during these precious 60 minutes.

My cohort skipped the fru-fru stuff and jumped straight into the wine list. There he found a medium-bodied blend of syrah and cabernet by Squeeze Box, priced by the glass at $6 and served generously in a glass beaker.

“This wine would go great with food,” he blurted upon first sip. And so it did.

From a menu of “light bites” we ordered a madly rich artichoke-spinach dip ($8) lathered over with a coat of goat cheese. Had we been a threesome, there was plenty of dip and crostini to go around.

Unlike in most scenarios where wine enhances the flavors of food, my cohort observed just the opposite in this pairing, insisting that the savory dip drew out the fruit and tannins of the wine. I was too deep into my martini to taste for myself.

A duo of crab cakes ($10) also arrived in the nick of time for soaking up our initial blasts of alcohol. Packed densely, but without goopy binders, they seemingly kept producing mini avalanches of lump crab as we forked along. The accompanying roasted peppers and Niçoise olives were equally irresistible, helping us to fend off the urge for beef Wellington as its aroma wafted from the kitchen. For that, you’ll need a dirty martini and $35 from Santa.

Wellington Steak & Martini Lounge
729 W. Washington St. (Mission Hills)
619-295-6001
Happy Hour: 5 to 6 p.m., daily

RATINGS:

Drinks: 5/5
There are nearly 20 specialty martinis to choose from, in addition to diverse wines by the glass.

Food: 5/5
From a “light bites” menu available during happy hour, both the flavor and presentation of the dishes measure up to Wellington’s sophisticated lounge atmosphere.

Value: 4/5
Compared to the carefully crafted martinis you’d find in downtown haunts, these are a few dollars less for the exact same quality.

Service: 4/5
Wait service slows a tad as the place fills up; though keep in mind that the bartenders and kitchen staff also work simultaneously for the adjoining Red Door.

Duration: 3/5
Budget-minded consumers should arrive at the very start of Wellington’s happy hour to get their fill because the discounts go poof a mere 60 minutes later.