The U.S. Virgin Islands, dubbed “America’s Caribbean”, is a true paradise just waiting to be rediscovered as a major tourist destination. Located in the Lesser Antilles, 50 islands make up this chain, the most well-known being St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix. These three islands, each with its own personality, are surrounded by warm turquoise waters and white sandy beaches and are rich in natural beauty, history and all the amenities any visitor would desire. Enjoying mild year-round temperatures ranging from 77 to 82 degrees, the USVI are an official territory of the United States and are governed by U.S. laws. First discovered in 1493 by Christopher Columbus, these islands have lured many with their duty-free shopping, great resorts, water-sport activities and beautiful beaches. I had been to St. Thomas before on a cruise ship and spent one day doing the shopping and sightseeing thing. But, on this latest trip, I decided to dig a little deeper to discover the real USVI and why so many come back year after year. Many Americans now call the USVI their home, and their stories sound similar. Usually, these go something like “I came here for a visit, fell in love with the place and decided to move.” When I asked these transplants what they used to do back in the “real world,” I discovered they came from all walks of life: lawyers, doctors, chefs, computer engineers and anything else you could imagine. I met one man sitting on the beach daily at an upscale resort just relaxing and playing the guitar. It turns out he was a former Naval Intelligence officer, tennis player and airline pilot (sort of reminded me of “Magnum P.I.”) who has relocated to St. Croix. St. Thomas: Small Island With an International Flavor If each island has its own personality, St. Thomas would have to be described as “cosmopolitan.” This is the second largest of the U.S. Virgin Islands, covering 32 square miles, and is home to the capital city, Charlotte Amalie, named in 1692 for the Queen of Denmark. The beauty of St. Thomas lies in its tropical terrain and picturesque harbors, like Magen’s Bay on the north side of the island. Serving as a major seaport and cruise ship destination, the port of Charlotte Amalie is visited by more than a million people a year, thanks to its beaches, sailing, windsurfing, fishing, diving and, of course, shopping. Each visitor can purchase up to $1,200 in retail goods without having to pay a duty tax. Where to Stay Visitors will find accommodations that fit every budget, including small inns, privately owned villas, luxury hotels and all-inclusive resorts. I stayed at the fabulous Ritz-Carlton hotel, which is located on the eastern tip of the island on a 30-acre beachfront estate. This property has won many awards, including the “World’s Best Awards” by Travel and Leisure magazine, and the “Top Hotels in the Americas” by The Travel Channel. It is not hard to see why. Stepping out on your private balcony affords a panorama of the sparkling blue Caribbean Sea, lush tropical landscaping, two pools, and St. John in distance. The 200 ocean-view rooms are tastefully decorated and come with all of the amenities you would expect from a luxury hotel including 24-hour room service, high-speed Internet, three multi-line phones, coffee makers and even babysitting services. If you’ve come to the USVI just to relax, you can do so lounging by the resort’s infinity pool or on its half-mile white-sand beach, or in its boutique spa, enjoying a massage. You also can enjoy tennis, snorkeling or sailing on the Lady Lynsey, a 53-foot catamaran. With an emphasis on quality of service, each employee of the Ritz-Carlton is instructed in 20 “basics” that must be met for each guest. In part, the staff’s credo says, “We pledge to provide the finest personal service and facilities for our guests, who will always enjoy a warm, relaxed yet refined ambiance.” So, if you are looking to be pampered, book yourself into the Ritz. Another good bet for your stay is the Renaissance Grand Beach Resort. Located on the northeast shore of St. Thomas, this property has 290 guest rooms, including 50 suites. Nestled among 34 rolling acres of hibiscus, bougainvillea and oleander, this is a great spot for a private tropical getaway. Shopping Excursions in Charlotte Amalie You will have no doubts as to when the cruise ships are in port at Charlotte Amalie, as you will find all the passengers shopping on Main Street and along the waterfront. You can find just about anything your heart desires, including jewelry, leather goods, perfume, crystal, cameras and, of course, your choice of rum, which is made locally on the islands. Many of the hotels offer the services of a personal shopping concierge in the form of Holly Palm. Holly makes the rounds at the various hotels and provides a “Shop Talk” presentation that provides valuable “insider” information, maps and even discount coupons. I found this to be a great service; look in the resources section for how to contact Holly. When in Rome, Eat Like a Roman If you’re looking for a change from the usual burger and pizza fare from back home, then you should experience some of the local cuisine offered in St. Thomas and the USVI as a whole. Try johnny cakes, pates (turnovers with seafood, chicken or beef), kallaloo (a stew of spinach, okra and seafood), fresh local fish, fungi (cornmeal blended with okra), conch, and bush tea (made from aromatic leaves indigenous to the Virgin Islands). Located on the water’s edge with a view of Charlotte Amalie, The Petite Pump Room offers a great taste of local fare. Menu items include local stewed chicken, fresh fish in lemon-butter sauce, sautéed conch in garlic, and many others. Even the side dishes, such as plantains, pigeon peas and local potato stuffing, were intriguing. I ordered the local fish with johnny cakes, along with a passion-fruit beverage. The food was excellent, and I finished up the meal with some guava ice cream while I watched the seaplanes whisking passengers to other adventures on St. Croix. If you’ve always dreamed about having a romantic dinner in a 200-year-old plantation field house (and who hasn’t?), then you have to try The Old Stone Farmhouse. Located on the north side of St. Thomas, this restored historic building features stone walls, arched passageways and courtyards. The international cuisine includes fresh seafood, steaks, sushi and fresh-baked goods, all delicious. Make sure you leave room for the delectable desserts. Tired of the Same Old Cruise Ship Experience? Try a yacht charter. I have nothing against cruise ships. I have been on many and enjoyed the experience. But, for something truly unique, try a charter yacht. Based in Compass Point on St. Thomas, VIP Charters’ fleet of sail and power yachts can provide your friends and family with one of the best vacations they’ve ever had. These yachts come fully equipped with all of the major conveniences, and you can choose to have them with or without a crew, depending upon your boating experience. We set to sea on a 54-foot power yacht to various snorkeling locations in and around St. John. The smell of the fresh ocean air, the azure waters and beautiful scenery were a feast for the senses. Compared with a large cruise ship, these boats can maneuver into small coves and harbors for the best diving, snorkeling, sun tanning or picnics on the beach. What is even more amazing is that, when shared with others, these yachts are as affordable as the cost of a traditional cruise. In fact, this little “secret vacation” is ideal for families, reunions or even a romantic getaway. St. John: Quiet, Serene and a Beach Lover’s Paradise The smallest of the Virgin Islands, St. John is a short 20-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas. It is also the most pristine of the islands, with two-thirds of it surrounded by the Virgin Islands National Park. In the 1950s, Laurance S. Rockefeller donated much of the land to the federal government to prevent overcrowding. The pace of life moves slower on St. John, and that’s the way the 4,000 residents like it. (The only other native inhabitants of the nine-mile-long island are some 400 wild donkeys.) Here, people say “good morning” or “good day” and offer visitors a friendly smile. Most of the activities on St. John are centered on hiking, relaxing on the many beautiful beaches or at a resort, shopping and water sports (sailing, diving and snorkeling). Where to Stay Caneel Bay, managed by Rosewood Hotels and Resorts, is one of those places you may never want to leave. Located on its own peninsula, this resort is made up of private villas on seven separate beaches, including Honeymoon Beach, Paradise Beach, Scott Beach and Turtle Bay Beach, among others. The first thing I noticed after entering my beachfront room was that there were no clocks or televisions. After the initial panic wore off, I realized that this is by design, as Caneel Bay is intended for maximum relaxation. In fact, this may be the reason that so many Hollywood celebrities visit this resort, one of the world’s best, each year. There are six restaurants on the premises, the Caneel Beach Terrace being the most popular for a breakfast and lunch buffet. Actually, breakfast was enough to fill me up until dinner. On the property, a new fully stocked, temperature-controlled wine room with over 1,000 selections—which is rare in the Caribbean—offers a seven-course wine-pairing gourmet menu that I found extraordinary. The flavors of the many dishes selected by the chef to accompany the wines were exquisite, as was the plating and presentation of each dish. If you have the opportunity to visit Caneel Bay, make sure you try the wine room, but book well in advance as there is a long reservation list. Other activities on the grounds include tennis, nature walks, water sports and a fitness center. The unique “Self-Centre” offers programs designed for mind/body renewal, including yoga, meditation, Pilates and holistic healing. Watersports Galore If you love tropical fish, sea turtles and all manner of marine life, then St. John will not disappoint. The reef at Trunk Bay is one of the favorite spots for snorkeling. There are many caves and tunnels for the more adventurous diver, and the vast array of coral is amazing. If you are a scuba diver, contact Cruz Bay Watersports, as they offer equipment and scuba instruction for both beginning and advanced divers. I discovered some of the best snorkeling right out my back door at Caneel Bay. In short order I was swimming in a liquid wonderland complete with turtles, and gliding peacefully over brain and elkhorn coral as well as an endless variety of fluorescent blue, yellow and green fish. Many USVI merchants carry free booklets that have a wealth of information about the islands and also offer discount coupons. One of the more popular of these booklets are the St. John Guidebooks. They contain maps, local information, shopping guides, real estate and restaurant information. You can also access them on the Internet at www.stjohnguidebook.com. Where to Shop and Eat on St. John After a day spent at the beach or on a boat, most islanders head to the town of Cruz Bay for some shopping or dining. Mongoose Junction, for instance, offers tropical resort wear, designer jewelry, fine arts and goldsmithing. Plan on spending a few hours wandering around the shops and discovering the many locally produced goods. Following a day of shopping you are certainly going to be hungry, and for my money there isn’t a better place to have lunch or dinner than the Wahoo Café. Located in Warfside Villiage on the waterfront, it served up one of the best meals I have had in the Caribbean. Starting with the appetizers, I loved the conch fritters with pickled ginger sauce. Although I dislike calamari, I was encouraged (read: bullied) to try these by my lunch companion, and boy was I glad I did. They were tender and flavorful, with a slight peppery taste. The owner told me the secret to making them right: Start by soaking the shellfish in buttermilk before frying. For the entrée, I had the Caribbean lobster, which melted in my mouth. Make sure you don’t overlook this gem during your visit to St. John. The Stone Terrace is another popular restaurant for an elegant dinner. Lit up at night like a Christmas tree with white lights, here you will enjoy international cuisine while overlooking the harbor. The food was exceptional, and this restaurant has been voted the best in the Virgin Islands in five separate categories. St. Croix: Gourmet Palate of History and Culture in a Tropical Setting The understated beauty and historical diversity of St. Croix can be seen in its pastoral landscapes, colorful buildings displaying Danish architecture, colonial-era sugar plantations, sustainable tourism and spectacular underwater scenery. At 82 square miles, St. Croix is the largest of the Virgin Islands. At the narrow tip of the island, and surrounded by the Caribbean Sea, Point Udall is the easternmost point in the U.S. Christopher Columbus landed here in 1493 looking for water and received a rather unfriendly welcome from the natives. Since that time, seven different nations have claimed St. Croix for their homeland, including France, England, Spain and the Netherlands. Despite having been hit hard by hurricanes, St Croix is poised to become a major tourist destination. Its quaint retail shops, art galleries and eco-tourism resorts welcome visitors with open arms. There are two main towns on the island: Christiansted and Frederiksted. The history of Christiansted dates back to 1730, and in 1749, with fortifications in place, it became Fort Christiansted and the seat of power for the USVI for many years. Wandering around Christiansted, down the various streets, will afford all sorts of treasures. Shops carry everything from tanzanite and gold to sportswear. Capturing the many colors of the Caribbean, buildings are painted in vibrant hues of blue, yellow, red and green. There is also a thriving art community here, which hosts weekly art walks from November through May. Some well-known artists make St.Croix their home, such as Mara Henle, daughter of Fritz Henle, who photographed Frida Kahlo in her heyday. You can find many of these old photos at Mara’s gallery at 55 Company Street. At the other end of the island, Frederiksted was the site of the first foreign salute to the new United States in 1776. Here, the cruise ships used to dock, and there is hope that they will return as more tourists are discovering the charms of this island. Getting Around Unless you’ve rented a car, one of the best ways to see St. Croix is with St. Croix Safari Tours. Its owner, Sweeny Toussaint, is a combination tour-bus operator/history professor/biologist. His wit and his passion for the island is apparent, which is why many people return year after year and become lifelong friends with this affable guide. Sweeny offers any number of tours, including the 1700s Danish Sugar Plantation House, Cruzan Rum Distillary, Rain Forest, and Botanical Gardens, to name just a few. They depart daily from King Street in Christiansted at 10:00 a.m., and rates are quite reasonable. Where to Stay There are many fine places to stay on St. Croix, and something to fit every budget. Some of the best resorts and hotels include the Inn at Pelican Heights, the Hibiscus Beach Hotel, Hotel Caravelle, and The Pink Fancy Hotel. If you like gaming, then the Divi Carina Bay Resort and Casino has 150 rooms, which is more than most of the other resorts and hotels on the island. If, however, you are looking for one of the best resorts on St. Croix with ocean-view suites, then you will want to try The Buccaneer. Perched on a hilltop and terraced right down to the ocean, this resort has been family operated since 1948. The Buccaneer sits on 340 acres of tropical landscape and boasts an 18-hole golf course, eight tennis courts, three beaches, a fitness center, water-sport activities, four restaurants and 138 guest rooms. The main building, which offers sweeping vistas of the turquoise waters below, was once the home of a young Alexander Hamilton. The ocean-view guestrooms open right onto the beach, and the rhythmic sounds of the gentle waves will lull you to sleep at night. I was told that one of resort’s chefs came to St. Croix to visit a friend and never left (sounds familiar). I found the food on the property to be excellent, and the open-air Terrace Restaurant offers a complimentary full breakfast. After a full day of swimming, hiking, kayaking and, of course, eating, you can soothe away your aching muscles in the Hideaway Spa. Try a relaxing aromatherapy massage, lavender and lemongrass wrap, French porcelain facial, or deluxe pedicure. After all, you will need to look and feel your best for dinner. The Buccaneer has won many awards over the years, including the “Top 25 Hotels in the Caribbean, the Bahamas and Bermuda” by Travel & Leisure magazine, as well as the “World’s Top 50 Tropical Resorts” by the Condé Nast Traveler Readers Poll in 1993. Activities One of the highlights of visiting St. Croix would have to be its excellent diving and snorkeling locations. At the Salt River Bay National Park (where Columbus first landed), divers can glide through submerged cliffs, black coral and purple sponges in one of the best wall dives in the Caribbean. If a mask plus snorkel is more to your liking, then the popular Buck Island will more than satisfy. This is the United States’ only underwater national monument. Buck Island is surrounded by the Barrier Reef and offers a spectacular undersea personal aquarium where you can get up close and personal with all manner of tropical fish. An underwater trail also can be followed, complete with signs that explain the coral reef ecology. Sustainable tourism (eco-tourism) is becoming more popular on St. Croix. One of the newest locations for this peaceful coexistence is the Mt. Victory Camp. In a “back-to-nature” experience, guests can enjoy stress-free country living in their own bungalow or well-outfitted tent. Thousands of acres wait to be explored on the island, which offers no shortage of outdoor activities, such as mountain biking, horseback riding, and hiking. Six different preservation areas include tropical forests, deserts and rustic seashores, all open to the public. Even though the Virgin Islands are a U.S. Territory, they are truly a melting pot of ethnic heritages. Each year the islands celebrate Carnival, a festival that traces its origins to the arrival of Africans on the islands. Colorful costumes, floats, food and Mocko Jumbies (stilt walkers) all come together to celebrate the “Elevated Spirit” that is the official symbol of Carnival. Even though it only arrives once a year—in April in St. Thomas, July in St. John, and December in St. Croix—you can feel the pride of the people of the Virgin Islands all year long. Whatever the reason, you are likely to be infected with the same spirit and find yourself in agreement with the lyrics to an old song: “I will taste again the fragrance of these islands, in the heaving waves that brought me once to thee.” Resources: United States Virgin Islands Tourism www.usvitourism.com The Ritz-Carlton www.ritzcarlton.com The Petite Pump Room 1-340-776-2976 Shop Talk 1-340-775-1791 VIP Charters www.vipyachts.com The Renaissance Grand Beach Resort www.renaissancehotels.com/stssr Caneel Bay www.rosewood-hotels.com Café Wahoo www.cafewahoo.com The Buccaneer www.thebuccaneer.com St. Croix Safari 1-800-524-2026 Mount Victory Camp www.mountvictorycamp.com