The skinny: take an epicurean legend like Sami Ladeki and pass on one of his masterpieces, Fresh Seafood Restaurant & Bar, 1044 Wall St., to newcomer Arturo Kassel, 26, and one will find that youth may no longer be wasted on the young.
“To a small degree, I find my youth to be a relief because people have no expectations ” and it is a beautiful place to be when people find themselves very pleasantly surprised,” Kassel said. “I find that people are also a little more forgiving, and I think that it puts me in a very unique position. I feel like this is an opportunity to develop a reputation, to make mistakes because everyone does and to take chances.”
Kassel’s restaurant-owning ambitions began quite early, and fortunately he had the opportunity as a youth living in La Jolla to befriend Ladeki, with whom he shared his dreams.
“Most people whom you meet in this business and express a desire to be in it are less than encouraging ” not out of fear of competition, but people think you don’t know what you are getting yourself into, the hours, the lifestyle, and most restaurants fail,” he said. “Sami was one of the few people who I encountered who did not say anything like that, but instead said. ‘OK, if this is really what you want to do, then this is how to get there.'”
Ladeki’s suggestions included more education and big city experience. Kassel earned a post-graduate degree in international hospitality management from Les Roches in Valais, Switzerland, and moved to New York City to complete an introductory program at the French Culinary Institute, finish an advanced viticulture and vinification course at the American Sommelier Association, and work at places like Stephen Hanson’s BR-guest Restaurant Group and managing the Kittichai in the 60 Thomas Hotel.
After so many years of working for other people, Kassel decided to focus on his dream to one day be proprietor at his own place. He drafted a business plan, and eight months later he had one that he thought would work well in his former stomping ground of San Diego.
“I went to go see Sami to get his opinion, and instead of reading my business plan and listening to me he said, ‘Whatever you are going to tell me, I have something better,'” Kassel said. “This was when he told me, ‘I would like you to take over Fresh.’ My response was overwhelming and I was very excited about the prospect. My gut instinct was this was a great opportunity but I may not be able to afford it. I slept on it and decided to move forward.”
The deal was done and this past July, Kassel purchased Fresh from Ladeki. Unfortunately as the date grew near for the new Fresh to open, one key element remained missing ” the person who would be backing up the new owner in the kitchen. Ladeki offered another suggestion: Ryan Johnston, 32, who was executive chef of Blackhorse Grille in Del Mar, another Ladeki restaurant which he had also sold.

“I asked Ryan to forget abut Sami and forget about me, and if you had your choice what would you be doing right now “¦ his answer was a complete match with mine and was what I came out to do here in the first place. I knew we could make Fresh work together as a team,” Kassel said. “His philosophy is simple, and I mean that as a compliment, that is no makeup, frills or bells and whistles ” what he puts out is a great product. He knows how to cook out the natural product and it is rustic and it is playful.”
Fresh’s new executive chef Johnston, a graduate of the renowned Culinary Institute of America and a protégé of Chef Thomas Keller, works his magic on dishes like a Torta Cubano with Black Forrest ham, roasted peppers, pickled onion, Manchego cheese and saffron aioli.
One way to enjoy the delectable delights can be found through the three-course prix fixe menu offered Sunday through Thursday, from 5 to 7 p.m., and priced at $29. Kassel recently created the Fresh-Fixe Benefit Series, for which 15 percent of proceeds from the prix fixe menu will benefit various causes. November’s beneficiary is the La Jolla Rotary Club.
“We decided to make these small desserts because a lot of people here are health-conscious. Most people have a sweet tooth, but oftentimes they pass on dessert because they do not want to spoil themselves too much and eat the whole thing,” Kassel said. “We decided that if we offer what we call our petite desserts of two or three bites, then they would indulge and be able to enjoy in the entire dining experience. ”
Other new features at Fresh are a superb raw seafood bar with oysters, shellfish, mussels and more, wine by the half-glass, premium wine pricing, remodeling and the creative genius of two young players, Kassel and Johnston, working up offerings in terms of what they deem grown-up comfort food.
“I want to see Fresh busy. For me, this is a stepping stone, it is a business and it needs to sustain itself, and of course I am in it to make a living, but more importantly I want to see this restaurant busy,” Kassel said. “This space never quite took off, and for me it will be a success when it is busy and full of people who are excited about coming here.”
For information call (858) 551-7575.