The most exquisite exhibition of silver adornment from five continents is showing at the Mingei International Museum in Balboa Park. Silver jewelry and adornments with jewel trims from Asia, Africa, Australia, Europe and North America gleam from glass cases. Many of the pieces belong to the museum’s permanent collection and other treasures have been lent by collector friends of the museum. Throughout history, jewelry, accessories and head covers have been worn as an acknowledgement of wealth, status, decoration, and protection throughout all cultures. Most of the collection is from the 20th century.
Different silver techniques can be identified throughout this exhibition. Repoussè is hammering a design from the back of an object; incising and engraving is the result of etching or scratching a design with a sharp tool; filigree is fine wire formed into delicate tracery; granulation is the process of melting silver or gold into small balls which are added to the major design. Bossing is a protrusion on the main silver piece. Coiled jewelry is a style twisting silver that is popular in the Dong culture.
From Guizhou, China, land of many nationalities, are magnificent torques “” neck pieces of bold designs or delicate engraving “” made in one, four or eight pieces. Torques are worn (usually by women) during festivals by minority Chinese in some isolated areas. Torques from India, Pakistan and the Himalayas are also on view.
From the Ladakh area of Asia, called Little Tibet, come stunning headpieces, usually worn by men with ear flaps and long neck pieces stitched over black curly lamb fur. The entire caps are adorned with fabulous turquoise and coral stones, viewed there as a protective stone, which have been sewn onto the leather. The headpieces are further enhanced with long thick braids of hair. Also from this area are neck pieces with amulets. The small boxes hanging from a chain may hold a Buddhist prayer inside which is worn for protection; or for those from Yemen, a Muslim verse from the Koran. Lingam cases from India are egg-shaped and linked with the idea of fertility of life and may hold a small egg-shaped stone, symbolic of male fertility. They are associated with the Goddess Shiva (the giver of life). Some African necklaces are also adorned with amulets.
Silver pieces from Bhutan include garment holders, called fibulas, which are two solid decorative pieces joined by a chain or a solid curved piece between and are worn near the shoulder. The cloak or garment is folded into a metal slot on the back of the fibula that secures the fabric. Fibulas from Yemen and Afghanistan are included in the display.
Silver from Afghanistan and Turkmenistan have been gold washed, referred to as fire-gilded, consequently giving the silver has a lighter, and duller look. The pieces are liberally embellished with carnelian and glass stones, which have been interchanged throughout the years. Some pieces are heart-shaped and have been modified to be worn as necklaces. There are different ways of wearing jewelry, depending on the ages of the women: younger child-bearing women will be adorned with lots jewelry, and as the women age the jewelry is not as prominent. In these countries, women wear headdresses with fabric and coin trims. The metal headpieces are considered crowns.
Two especially rare pieces in the collection should be sought out. A small dainty necklace made with gold, diamonds and pearls from the 1700’s is from Jaipur, Rajasthan India. The reverse side is enameled in red and green, so the versatile piece can be worn as the occasion deems fit. Another rare piece is a Zbi from Tibet, a rare sheep’s eye banded agate. It is unaltered with the exception of polishing. A bead of this style is worn for protection to repel the evil eye. The stone may cost a one- or two-year salary, because of its rarity.
Two local metal artists, Helen Shirk and Arline Fisch, have their intriguing sculptural jewelry displayed.
The blinding silver display is nothing short of fabulous. The museum has a cadre of volunteers who lovingly and carefully polished all the pieces before display.
In conjunction with this exhibition is a special retrospective of artistic, stylish furniture by world-renowned Sam Maloof in honor of his 90th birthday; and an exhibition by museum director emeritus Martha Longenecker, with a retrospective exhibition of her pottery.
The Mingei International Museum in located in Balboa Park. Hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Mondays. Call (619) 239-0003 to schedule docent tours and other information.